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Chimney Rock - West Face
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Pinched Rib 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Roy Naasz, March 1973
Page Views: 3,031
Submitted By: M.Morley on Jul 1, 2002

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Pinched Rib at the end of another perfect day in J...

Description 

Not much to say about this one. A pretty fun - albeit short - route. Follow the quartz dike past 2 bolts (crux at second bolt). Belay in crack (hand size cams) and descend west down 4th class chimney.

Descend by heading right and down a slabby but improbable looking crack.


Protection 

2 bolts (3/8") plus a couple of hand size cams for belay.



Photos of Pinched Rib Slideshow Add Photo
Climber on Pinched Rib
Climber on Pinched Rib
Aerili having fun on "Pinched Rib". <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Aerili having fun on "Pinched Rib".
Photo by Blitz...
Ahhh what a great climb! <br />
Ahhh what a great climb!
Wolfgang Braun at age 12 onsighting Pinched Rib.
Wolfgang Braun at age 12 onsighting Pinched Rib.
Good gear protects the easier starting moves to the first bolt.
Good gear protects the easier starting moves to th...
It is not obvious how to approach the crux moves.  This didn't work but luckily you can down climb pretty easily to a stance below.
It is not obvious how to approach the crux moves. ...
just past the crux
just past the crux
Getting the foot sequence correct is the key!  Is it right left right left or is it left right left right?  A fun sequence to figure out.  The huge holds seen above are out of reach so a few foot moves with thin liebacks is required.
Getting the foot sequence correct is the key! Is ...
Sweet
Sweet
taken by Jim Pedgrift
taken by Jim Pedgrift
Lisa Pritchett on Pinched Rib 5.10b, Joshua Tree National Park, California.
Lisa Pritchett on Pinched Rib 5.10b, Joshua Tree N...
Chimney Rock - West Face
BETA PHOTO: Chimney Rock - West Face
Half way up Pinched Rib.
BETA PHOTO: Half way up Pinched Rib.
Tom
Tom
Mike Kidner tops out on Pinched Rib. Photo: Mike Morley
Mike Kidner tops out on Pinched Rib. Photo: Mike M...
Always wanted this one.  Sweet sequence. <br /> <br />photo by Chris Lane
Always wanted this one. Sweet sequence.

photo by...
Comments on Pinched Rib Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 7, 2012
By Flying T
Dec 16, 2002
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

It may have originally been 5.7, but more has to pull off before it's .10b. If not for the one crux move, it'd be 5.9. Short but really fun!

By Steve Juhasz
Mar 18, 2003

This route sometimes has a bolt anchor on top, sometimes not. I climbed it one day when the bolt anchor was in that little bowl on top under a small overhang, and the next day I soloed it and the bolts were already gone! What's the point of this story you ask? Just this: don't waste your time and money putting in a bolt anchor, some zealot will no doubt chop it within 24 hours.

By C Miller
Administrator
Feb 26, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Aka - Snake Dike and Death Dike. Decent climbing up an obvious feature, but very short and not especially memorable.

By chris s miller
Apr 6, 2004

Good story on this one. My friend, Chuck, went to lead it thinking it was 5.7. It was probably his third lead, and we were looking for something easy make him feel good about his leading ability. As Chuck gets to the crux, some guy walks by and starts talking to us about the grade change (5.9 at that time). Not wanting to freak out Chuck, we quiet the guy and watch Chuck battle the crux. He must have tried it about ten times before he committed and took a nice little whipper. Chuck was pissed until we told him the route was much harder

By Randy
Nov 7, 2004
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Crux is too short and not hard enough to be 10b.

By Anonymous Coward
Nov 8, 2004

Funny, I've seen a lot of photos of this thing and had many friends describe it as a must do. But a lot of you locals only give it 1 star. I thought it was a thought provoker up an interesting feature. Two stars.

By Woody Stark
Feb 15, 2005
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I led this years ago before the bolts; and for the life of me, I can't figure out how I protected it. I did it again today, and decided I must have been nuts. Anyway, it's no more than nine plus as far as I'm concerned. It's an invigorating lead though. Good fun.

By Ray Vera
Feb 16, 2005

Woody: Are you saying you did the route before 1973? If so, had it been done (to your knowledge) before you led it? Certainly, if you did lead it without the bolts (pre:1973) it was the FA or at least FKFA.

Do you recall when exactly you did it and who else climbed it with you? Since my current publisher has sidelined the guide until November/December, it would be nice to correct any FA info.

By Murf
Feb 16, 2005

Holy Cow- Ray Vera has a guide coming out the same time as Randy!

By Woody Stark
Feb 16, 2005
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I led it in the early to mid seventies before the bolts were set. It was called Death Dike in those days so I couldn't have done the FA. That climb would have been with Dick Webster and /or Bill Briggs.

By Woody Stark
Dec 28, 2005
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I did this route again today to confirm a suspicion about the rating. Last year I used a different combination of foot moves that I'd not tried before and was surprised at the result. The original rating--way back--was 5.7 then raised to 5.8 and is now 10a/b. Well, it was 5.7/5.8 today. Here's the secret: stay on the rib all the way. You start with the left foot on a reasonable sloper, then proceed on good holds right, left, right and grab the horn. While doing this, lean back a bit using the right edge of the dike all the way to the horn. Surprised the hell out of me. To me, it appears, the original party rated it correctly. I've done this twice now, and I'm certain I'm correct. Others should give it a try and see for themselves.

By Randy
Dec 29, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Woody... perhaps if you do it a few more times it will seem 5.6.

By Woody Stark
Dec 30, 2005
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Now, now... Randy.

By Paul Rezucha
From: Alameda
Jun 8, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

A fun route to do at the end of the day right out of the Hidden Valley Campground. Easy climbing leads to the second bolt which is where the crux begins. It is not obvious what to do here but the foot and hand sequence is fun to figure out. If you get it right the first time it may not seem that hard. But if you try different sequences and have to down climb to the stance a few times, it could get a little tiring. I generously give this ** just for the interesting dike characteristic!

By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Feb 25, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Fun route with pseudo crux (if you can call it that) getting past the second bolt. Took only a moment to figure out the move. Casual climbing to the top. Bring some medium size cams for the anchor.

You can walk off by heading directly to your right towards Cyclops Rock. Down what looks to be a grim slab to a crack that heads back towards the front of the route. Looking right, head for the tree and down-climb there. I've done a lot of J-Tree walk-offs and this one is a lot better than most. Providing you know where you're headed.

As for the rating. I agree with Woody and go with a 9+ as the crux is maybe one move, the route is short and if you compare it to other routes in the area it doesn't support the 10b rating. IMO

~Susan

By Adam Kimmerly
Apr 30, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I too think that even 5.10a might be a stretch on this one. The move is really easy if you set up the foot sequence right. I used little edges on the right side of the dike and liebacked right off a good sidepull to reach the better holds above. No harder than 5.9.

Though short, and really a one-move-wonder (like so many in JTree) this is still a very fun route up a cool feature. 2 stars out of 5 from me.

By Wolfgang Braun
From: Beavercreek, Oregon
Oct 15, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

This is a very fun route. i seem to remember scrambling off it on some slabs to the right. Then stepping down next to a tree in a crack.

By david quatro
Mar 9, 2009

I did this right after SW Corner and Cryptic, and I thought it was easier than both of these. I thought there would be a crux, but I didn't even find a move harder than 5.8. The crux was making an anchor to belay the second. Fun route, but disappointing.

By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Apr 8, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

One or two 5.10- moves on the dike, but once you hit the sequence from the great stance then it feels like a cakewalk. There are definitely harder .10b's in the park.

By C Miller
Administrator
Jun 8, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Pinched Rib on Youtube -

By roman d
From: Pasadena, CA
Mar 17, 2010

Super fun line. No way is the short, well protected crux 10b. Felt closer to 9.

By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Apr 12, 2010

Goddamn! The comments are almost literally getting longer than the climb.

By Floridaputz
From: Oakland Park, Florida
Oct 15, 2011

I lead this before I had sticky rubber shoes in 81'. At the time I was told it was rated 5.8. I was stumped until I laid it back and boom, I had it. I've always heard since then that certain holds are gone so it's much harder now. It's seems that there is a split opinion on this. In the Pic I posted, compared to the others, there seems to be a good bit more patina on the dike back then.

By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Jan 8, 2012

@FLputz: Pretty darn easy for "10". Stouter than a 5.8 though. I guess it's 5.10 if you don't committ and hang out for a while. Then again, many climbs are that way.

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Jan 16, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

solo

By Rob Selter
From: running springs Ca
Apr 7, 2012

didn't feel like a j-tree 5.10 but what do I know.