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Major Wall
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Chris's Route (name will change) S 
Demon, The S 
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Limp Traddy S 
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Pimp Caddy S 
Pimp Daddy S 
Pinche Wey S 
Prickly Proctologist S 
She Can Bolt S 
Zee Wicked Bulge AKA:Puff Daddy S 

Pinche Wey 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Scott Roberts 2010
Page Views: 320
Submitted By: DisturbingThePeace on Oct 10, 2011

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Description 

Start on the left side of major wall on a small ledge. The crux comes right of the ground in getting to the first bolt (Stickclip recommended). There is alot of chalk on various holds, so there are probably many ways of doing the start, but it felt like a V5 or V6 boulder problem to me. After the boulder start get a good rest and pull the second crux a significantly easier short boulder problem. Afterwards it is steep but large holds make it easy to the finish.


Location 

On the far left side of major wall. Look for the shiny new bolts. This is the second route from the left.


Protection 

5 Bolts to Anchors, Stickclip. There are two additional manky bolts up high on this route. The are positioned close enough to the other bolts that clipping them doesn't gain much.



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By socorroscott
From: socorro, nm
Oct 21, 2011

so i put this thing up last year, and it was pretty obvious that the lower section had not been climbed. it was full of the real flaky surface choss. i called it pinche wey. although i have not been able to find anyone who has actually done pinche verge, i think it is supposed to go up the crack to the left, and finish on the same.

By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Oct 21, 2011

Thanks Scott, I updated the description. What did you think for the grade, was I anywhere close with 12c?

Mike

By socorroscott
From: socorro, nm
Oct 26, 2011

gosh, its kinda hard to say. its a two move wonder...maybe a v7 boulder problem at the start...i thought a touch harder, but .12c sounds good to me.

By DisturbingThePeace
From: Albuquerque, NM
Oct 26, 2011

Agreed, the start is tough and took me a few tries to figure out. If I put it on here as 13a it will see 5 times the traffic, but I'll leave it 12c for now...

By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Oct 26, 2011

Which is of course what V7 would be closest to, though if it is v5, .12c would be better.

By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Oct 26, 2011

If only there were a grade between 12c and 13a ;)

By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Oct 27, 2011

You mean, like 5.10d...

By socorroscott
From: socorro, nm
Nov 16, 2011

as for the rating...if only about three people have done it...i am happy with .12c, .13a, or .10d. but it is a really fun route on good stone, so everyone should climb it. and if it ends up at .13a, creating more traffic...rad...i put the silly thing up to be climbed.