Pinche Guey 

Probably the best route at the crag. A right kneebar at the crux (getting into the overhanging blocky rock) makes the crux straight forward and enjoyable, without the kneebar/kneepad (jessery, cheating, whatever) the crux is painful and hard relying on powerful pinching. Great route and nice addition to the crag....

I saw the possibility of getting a kneebar under the roof, but opted out with a series of underclings, pinches, and key foot sequences to a dynamic move over the roof instead. The tricky sequence getting to the 3rd bolt is just awesome. It helps to put your dancing shoes on up to the roof. Good eye Matt for picking out the best line at the crag.

Hmm, I remembered to use a kneebar, but used my left...which worked fine. Sometimes too little knowledge is a good thing. Felt more like 12a with the kneebar, but I don't want to be one of those downrating guys.
Regardless, quite fun and worthwhile.

We mistakenly got on this thinking it was the 11b/c.
I looked at the knee bar in thin tights and thought better of not doing it. I pinched low and slapped over the roof second try. I don't think this is harder than 11+/12-. I defer to the harder side of that in light of other opinions, but it is not terribly hard. I don't usually get mid-12s that easily when I'm going casual climbing after work. I think the pinch is just bad beta.

The kneebar does bring the grade down a bit (or a fair bit) at the crux; also the holds are much cleaner and less gritty thanks to traffic than when we put the route up four years ago. 12a/b for the onsight; 12a once you know it? I dunno...something like that. Not as hard as Warlock Pinche.