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Ruckman Cave
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Unsorted Routes:

Pinch Fest 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Stuart and Bret Ruckman
Page Views: 6,354
Submitted By: Sean Bradley on Jul 21, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (90)
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Ashley Gann on Pinchfest. Photo by Kyle McFarland...

Description 

It goes up to a two bolt anchor a few feet below the large roof. Follow pinches up the wall with good clips. The sequence is hard to follow 3/4 of the way up.

Location 

The route goes right up the center of the Ruckman Cave almost directly ahead of the trail.

Protection 

6 bolts to a two bolt LO.


Photos of Pinch Fest Slideshow Add Photo
Pete Winter - Pinch Fest 5.12b.
Pete Winter - Pinch Fest 5.12b.
Pete Winter on Pinch Fest - 5.12b.
Pete Winter on Pinch Fest - 5.12b.
Sam entering the crux.
Sam entering the crux.
Sasha Cherry - Pinch Fest 5.12b.
Sasha Cherry - Pinch Fest 5.12b.
Soaking up the rest.
Soaking up the rest.

Comments on Pinch Fest Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anonymous Coward
May 1, 2004

A great route. Originally named Pump Action by Bret and Stuart Ruckman
By Aleksander Tkach
May 1, 2005

the last clip is not easy!!! better to take the big whip than to hang the draw.
By Peggy Sayer
Jun 22, 2005
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Matt - if you are replacing the last bolt - thanks so much. this is one of my favorite routes in Rifle and we [regularly] use this as one of our warm ups.
By KCP
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Jul 26, 2005
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

I always enjoy this route. I think the last clip adds to the route. Isn't half the fun of climbing in the challenge? Just think of clipping this bolt as the crux.
By 426
Mar 21, 2007

Great route, super "primer" for harder routes in the park...
By Jeremy H
May 17, 2009

A large chunk of rock fell off this last week. The piece that is missing was used as a foot hold in the crux. The route still goes at 12b, but it is a little trickier for your feet.
By Jay Samuelson
From: Denver CO
May 18, 2009
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Classic route. Intriguing, unique movement that will leave you smiling all the way.
By Jack Sparrow
From: denver, co
Nov 5, 2013

This route is disgustingly polished and greasy, I was climbing this route when it was 35 degrees in the shade and it was still the slickest thing I've ever touched. The best jug on the route I can barely hold without pumping out due to the greasy rock. It's like climbing up an ice route without crampons or axes. Major props to anyone who can send this.
By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Nov 5, 2013

Like most limestone after a lot of use; makes one dream about granite.
By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Aug 10, 2014

The remaining old bolts on Pinch Fest (other than the useless, low first bolt) were replaced with ClimbTech glue-in WaveBolts provided by the ASCA. A few of the quicklinks were updated and were provided by C.A.M.P..

The crux bolt was replaced a few years ago with a stainless 5 piece. The old holes were reused except for the last bolt which was spinning and nothing I had could get it to come out.

Enjoy!