Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | July 28, 2011 |
Page Views: | 978 total · 6/month |
Shared By: | Jay Harrison on Jul 31, 2011 |
Admins: | Morgan Patterson, Kevin MudRat MacKenzie, Jim Lawyer |
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Description
The crux is getting through the first 20'. Perhaps the hardest part is placing gear: though good pro is available, the stances are very strenuous.
The upper section consists of runout but mild 5.6 knob-hopping.
Pinch the rightmost crack's edge and pull up into a steep lieback. Bump to good knobs to the right, then make a tenuous pinch/jam/cling left (difficult but solid gear placement at this point). Step up onto a slabby niche, climb a right-rising crack to a horizontal, then climb straight up wonder-knobs, right of a rounded nose, to the ledge below the anchor.
NOTE: A lot of ice forms over the lip of the Birthday Corner early in the season. It falls from >30m up, landing among the base of all the Amphitheatre area routes. Even after the main winter's accumulation has fallen, nightly formations continue to bombard the area. Be watchful, wear a helmet, and if big ice is looming above on that crystalline spring morning, maybe climb somewhere else.
The upper section consists of runout but mild 5.6 knob-hopping.
Pinch the rightmost crack's edge and pull up into a steep lieback. Bump to good knobs to the right, then make a tenuous pinch/jam/cling left (difficult but solid gear placement at this point). Step up onto a slabby niche, climb a right-rising crack to a horizontal, then climb straight up wonder-knobs, right of a rounded nose, to the ledge below the anchor.
NOTE: A lot of ice forms over the lip of the Birthday Corner early in the season. It falls from >30m up, landing among the base of all the Amphitheatre area routes. Even after the main winter's accumulation has fallen, nightly formations continue to bombard the area. Be watchful, wear a helmet, and if big ice is looming above on that crystalline spring morning, maybe climb somewhere else.
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