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Pinch A Loaf 5.10b
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.10c [details] |
| FA: | Dave Field and Ernie Moskovics, 1986 |
| Submitted By: | Richard M. Wright on Jun 29, 2001 |
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Private Property issues MORE INFO >>>
The West Bank / Wild West / Secret Crag has been problematic for years due to access concerns. There have been negative encounters with gun-toting landowners who have alleged that the entire mountain is on private property. Typical approaches involve brief crossing of railroad property which appears to be prohibited.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description 100 yards uphill from Drive By Shooting is an ominous looking roof that goes comfortably at 5.10. Two or three bolts up the slab lead to an awkward clip near the edge of the roof. Pull the roof on jugs - the moves are a kick.
Protection A half a dozen QDs and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.
By Chris Archer
May 5, 2008
rating: 5.10 PG13
| 4 bolts; optional #1-#1.5 Friend between 2 & 3; unwelded cold shut anchor. |
By Ernie Moskovics
Apr 11, 2013
| FA Dave Field and Ernie Moskovics. This was our first motorized drill installed route. Dave had the scam on a Bosch from the geotech outfit he worked for and kept it for weeks at a time. With a free drill, we felt it was our obligation to start putting in routes. The name comes from the fact that there was a inset chunk of rock in a crack at the start (which looked like a loaf of bread). I pinched it (and it promptly reefed), but it stayed put for a second, and the route had a name. |
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