Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
East and Northeast Buttress Approach
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Assembly Line 
Back to Montana 
Belle Fourche Buttress 
Broken Tree 
Buckspeck 
Burning Daylight 
Casper College 
Everlasting 
Gooseberry Jam 
Hourglass, The 
Maid in the Shade 
Missed Opportunity 
New Wave 
Patent Pending 
Pinball Wizard 
Soaring 
Spectator Sport 
Surfer Girl 
Team Ropin 
Witchie 

Pinball Wizard 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a A4-

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 165', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a A4- [details]
FA: Pat Kingsbury, Trevor Bowman, and Dave Elder 9/27/08
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 497
Submitted By: Trevor Bowman on Oct 9, 2008
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Pat strung out on tipped out metal.
Voluntary Closure Every June and Seasonal Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is essentially the direct finish to the second pitch of the free route Dump Watt.
Pitch 1--Climb either the first pitch of Dump Watt (5.9+) or the recommended new route Hourglass (5.11a) to the beefy, brand new belay bolts at a shelf stance.

Pitch 2--Free climb (5.10-) or clean aid (C1) up the fracture crack on the left face of the corner above to a horizontal at about 50', this is where Dump Watt exits left into the next crack over and where Unnamed truly begins. The horizontal accepts bomber cams up to #1 camalot, which will be the last good gear for quite a ways. Immediately after the horizontal, and for almost the entire length of the upper corner, you will be stringing together very marginal placements since the corner is pretty much closed. Lots of marginal beaks, tipped out small blades and baby angles make this a heady pitch! The crack opens back up at the roof, where you can place some bomber cams and pendulum left to finish up the last 30' of Dump Watt (C1 #.75-#3 cams) to its standard 2nd pitch anchors.


Location 

Dump Watt is essentially the first route right of Belle Fourche on the east face. Unnamed ascends the direct upper corner of the second pitch of Dump Watt and shares about 1/2 of the pitch.


Protection 

Standard double rack of cams and stoppers, offset cams handy, 10 #1 beaks, 5 each baby angles and assorted bugaboos, tie-offs.



Photos of Pinball Wizard Slideshow Add Photo
Pat and Trevor still strapped to the belay at 9pm while Dave finishes cleaning the pitch. Three guys, no headlamps...
Pat and Trevor still strapped to the belay at 9pm ...
Comments on Pinball Wizard Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -