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East and Northeast Buttress Approach
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Assembly Line T 
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Belle Fourche Buttress T 
Broken Tree T 
Buckspeck S 
Burning Daylight T 
Casper College T 
Everlasting T 
Gooseberry Jam T 
Hourglass, The T 
Maid in the Shade T 
Missed Opportunity T 
New Wave T 
Patent Pending T 
Pinball Wizard T 
Soaring T,S 
Spectator Sport T 
Surfer Girl T 
Team Ropin S 
Witchie T 

Pinball Wizard 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a A4-

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 1 pitch, 165', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a A4- [details]
FA: Pat Kingsbury, Trevor Bowman, and Dave Elder 9/27/08
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 512
Submitted By: Trevor Bowman on Oct 9, 2008

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Pat strung out on tipped out metal.
Voluntary Closure Every June and Seasonal Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is essentially the direct finish to the second pitch of the free route Dump Watt.
Pitch 1--Climb either the first pitch of Dump Watt (5.9+) or the recommended new route Hourglass (5.11a) to the beefy, brand new belay bolts at a shelf stance.

Pitch 2--Free climb (5.10-) or clean aid (C1) up the fracture crack on the left face of the corner above to a horizontal at about 50', this is where Dump Watt exits left into the next crack over and where Unnamed truly begins. The horizontal accepts bomber cams up to #1 camalot, which will be the last good gear for quite a ways. Immediately after the horizontal, and for almost the entire length of the upper corner, you will be stringing together very marginal placements since the corner is pretty much closed. Lots of marginal beaks, tipped out small blades and baby angles make this a heady pitch! The crack opens back up at the roof, where you can place some bomber cams and pendulum left to finish up the last 30' of Dump Watt (C1 #.75-#3 cams) to its standard 2nd pitch anchors.


Location 

Dump Watt is essentially the first route right of Belle Fourche on the east face. Unnamed ascends the direct upper corner of the second pitch of Dump Watt and shares about 1/2 of the pitch.


Protection 

Standard double rack of cams and stoppers, offset cams handy, 10 #1 beaks, 5 each baby angles and assorted bugaboos, tie-offs.



Photos of Pinball Wizard Slideshow Add Photo
Pat and Trevor still strapped to the belay at 9pm while Dave finishes cleaning the pitch. Three guys, no headlamps...
Pat and Trevor still strapped to the belay at 9pm ...
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