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Pinball Arete 

V5

   
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Type: Boulder, 12 feet
Consensus: V5 [details]
FA: 
Submitted By: SteveSchultz on Apr 16, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Im climbing the warmup crack in the pit. Pinball a...

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Description 

Climb the arete just right of Tick Tock in the middle of the pit to a spicy topout. Start standing on the boulder and go straight up the arete.


Location 

Located in "the pit" at Burma. Near the right side of the cliff line, duck under a wedged, hanging boulder and the problem should be obvious.


Protection 

Pads



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By SteveSchultz
May 31, 2011

For sure one of the best in the park. With the action at Burma recently wanted to make sure this was posted.

For what it's worth you can fall off the topout with no pads or spotters, bounce off of 2 walls, 3 boulders and still walk away relatively unharmed. Not recommended, but possible nonetheless.

By Paul Campbell
From: Sussex, WI
Jun 1, 2011

Hey Steve, we actually checked this out but didn't take any pics. Does the problem start from the ground or ontop of the large block? The landing definitely looked scary with most of the climbing directly over a large uneven boulder.

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jun 1, 2011

I see. So we did look at the right problem. Looked somewhat scary for the landing. Didn't you mention having a terrible experience on this Steve?

By SteveSchultz
Jun 1, 2011

If I remember right you start on the block at about chest level, but I'm not totally sure. It's been about 6 years since I've done it. Crux felt like rolling over the final mantle.

John, see my first comment for said terrible experience. Be careful when cleaning the topout peeps.

By greg bahr
Oct 3, 2011

what is this? i confused?

By Paul Campbell
From: Sussex, WI
Oct 17, 2011

This thing is absurdly dirty. I took a couple pics I will put up later.

By Rock Warrior Films
May 8, 2013
rating: V5

Props to whomever cleaned this. Fun stuff and scary with my pad situation. I traversed left a few moves after a big move to an easier top out above Tick Tock. From what I have understood it starts standing on the boulder. Go do it now while it's clean.

By SteveSchultz
May 9, 2013

The cleaning may have been left over from last fall when Katie and I attempted to clean the top. Was extremely muddy then but we assumed it'd clean off with some moisture. Also, updated the description.

By Rock Warrior Films
May 9, 2013
rating: V5

It sounds like you topped out direct Steve. I didn't want to risk taking that fall... it's pretty slopey up there and the rock kinda felt bad today. With more pads it looks awesome and more full value than how I did it....