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The Pinnacle
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Loosy Goosy T 
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Pin Chimney T 
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Standard Route T 
Valdez, The T 

Pin Chimney 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Dempsey Medford, Carl Resh - 1985
Page Views: 2,408
Submitted By: saxfiend on Jan 5, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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Great exposure for Sand Rock

Description 

With its traversing moves and the old piton that gives the route its name, Pin Chimney is a little reminiscent of Gunks climbing. The rock is great quality, the protection is good and the exposure rivals that of the neighboring Comfortably Numb. One of the nicer moderate trad routes at Sand Rock.

Starting on a flat boulder below a large cave, work your way up the right side of the cave to a ledge above. Note: don't count on getting any protection in before gaining the ledge. Traverse left and up to an obvious chimney, noting an old pin which you may or may not decide to clip. Climb the well-protected chimney to the top.


Location 

Starts near the east end of the Pinnacle, below a cave, around the corner left of the Standard Route.


Protection 

A good range of cams, nuts, tricams (mostly medium range). Long slings are needed for the traverse. Bolted anchors on top.



Photos of Pin Chimney Slideshow Add Photo
Trying hard to blend with the color of the rock, I move up to the traverse on Pin Chimney.
Trying hard to blend with the color of the rock, I...
Just past the crux overhang. This felt stout for 5.8
Just past the crux overhang. This felt stout for 5...
David Logan leading Pin Chimney.
David Logan leading Pin Chimney.
Comments on Pin Chimney Add Comment
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By Roswell
From: Newnan. Ga
Oct 18, 2012

Must do if good trad leads are your thing. Have heard many way that route offers minimal protection in for about the first 25' but i had no difficulty. Move up right of the roof then traverse left until under obvious chimney. Once into chimney the start of it there are not many options for pro except the old Piton wedged in the crack at the start. Piton seems good enough then once you push past the start of the chimney there are more options for pro. But hands down one of the best routes i have done at sand rock.

By Cres Simpson
From: Birmingham, AL
Dec 6, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Awesome trad route and my favorite trad lead at SR (though I haven't built up the nerve to lead Comfortably Numb yet). I think I actually started halfway between the direct start and the true start -- it's slightly overhung but on huge jugs and protects extremely well with a slung horn about 10' off the deck. From there it's smooth sailing!

I did not clip the fixed pin in the chimney as it looked pretty manky, but there's ample pro, albeit finicky. I had some large tricams with me (grey and green, iirc) that worked well. The pro is definitely there, you just have to find it!

Overall an outstanding climb and one of SR's moderate trad gems.