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 ADVANCED
The North Gym
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"40-Year-Old Virgin" (Name Unknown) S 
"Black Crack" (Name Unknown) T,S 
"Pacman Gomez" (Unnamed) S 
"Tommy" (Unnamed) S 
Apogee Pending S 
Earth Mama's Natural Night Camo S 
Flamingo Lane S 
Full Retard S 
Here We Go Again... Again. S 
Lead Farmer S 
Logan's Run S 
Long Black Veil S 
Observe God's Mistake S 
Pimp's Main Prophet S 
Power Milk & Bagels S 
Power Thirteen S 
Rum- Tum- Tuggernaughts S 
Scorcher VI: Global Meltdown S 
Spitting Image S 
Teenage Prostitutes S 
That's What She Said S 
Unknown 1 S 
Unknown 3 S 
Who Left the Fridge Open? S 

Pimp's Main Prophet 

YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13b French: 8a Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 30 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Mark Anderson, 18 Nov. '11
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 976
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Nov 21, 2011

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Mike Anderson onsighting "Pimp's Main Prophet...

Description 

This clean white bulge is one of the most continuously steep lines at Shelf, requiring big, athletic moves on relatively huge holds. A short band of choss before the business detracts somewhat, and the rock on the rest of the line is not quite as clean as it could be. However, the movement and position is superior to other routes of the grade at Shelf, lacking the tweaky and painful holds found elsewhere.

Stick clip the first bolt, then cruise the easy slab to a stance at the break. Alert your belayer, then teeter past a 3' band of spooky choss to reach a shallow open book in solid stone, just below the steepness. Make a big span to a 2-finger pocket to reach a honeycomb band of huge pocket jugs that all seem to face the wrong way. Another big reach to hidden holds sets up a difficult clip, and then the crux: a dynamic, rising traverse to gain the headwall.

Location 

This is the furthest right bolted line in the Teenage Prostitutes area, climbing a tall white bulge. Due to its SE aspect, this line sees more sun than other routes on this section of the cliff.

Protection 

5 bolts to 2BA. Stick clip recommended.


Photos of Pimp's Main Prophet Slideshow Add Photo
Kate warming up in the sun.
Kate warming up in the sun.
The crux begins with a big move to exit the honeycomb band.
The crux begins with a big move to exit the honeyc...
Pimp's Main Prophet, high above Four Mile Creek Canyon.
Pimp's Main Prophet, high above Four Mile Creek Ca...
Mid-way thru the crux bulge.
Mid-way thru the crux bulge.

Comments on Pimp's Main Prophet Add Comment
Show which comments
By Darryl Roth
Nov 28, 2011

Great job, Mark. An excellent looking line and an excellent addition to Shelf!
By Mike Anderson
From: Dayton, OH
Dec 13, 2011

This route is superb. Easily one of the more athletic routes at Shelf on mostly perfect rock. If typical Shelf climbing turns you off, try this route.