Lower Tier of Pilot Knob from the nice little area...
A primarily shady crag, Pilot Knob faces Northwest. With that aspect comes some of the usual suspects: vegetation, lichen, moss, etc., on some of the crag. Other parts of the crag are clean, strikingly good stone, and good climbing. This applies particularly the upper tier. Despite the short (and presently dry) approach, lack of ivy, and solid stone, and moderate grades, this crag hasn't seemed to have gotten popular. I suppose it is still waiting to be discovered by the masses. Perhaps the lower pitches that gate the best climbing above keep the masses away, but it is, nonetheless, a great crag for a pair of climbers to dedicate a day to.
The better climbs there were the following moderates:
Drive 7.3 miles up canyon to mile 25.8. Park in a long paved pullout on the left and look across the creek to see the 'Stewardess Convention Crag.' Just downstream of that, back down the hill to your left, is an obvious pinnacle around which the stream bends Southward. That is the Pilot Knob.
While the traditional approach is to wade the stream below Stewardess and then walk down a ways to Pilot Knob, presently there is a very large tree that has fallen across the stream and one can climb into its end, then walk "down" the tree to cross the creek completely dry. From there, it is a 3 minute walk to the base of the crag.
Of the routes that we did on Pilot Knob, this was the best. There are two starts, an 8 (easier) or the 9+ (recommended). To do the 9+ start, head up under a roof to the right of Touch and Go and pull through it on the right side onto a face and past a very large wedged block. Protect this and continue up into a crack system slightly to the right, ending after some horizontals. Clip a single bolt and do the second crux (8+) on face moves to reach a bolted anchor....[more]Browse More Classics in CO
In his excellent guide from Sharp End Publishing, Gillett offers the advice that, if you wish to climb the "Third Tier," you can, but it's not worth the time; and he suggests eschewing the rap bolts for the 4th-class downclimb.