A primarily shady crag, Pilot Knob faces Northwest. With that aspect comes some of the usual suspects: vegetation, lichen, moss, etc., on some of the crag. Other parts of the crag are clean, strikingly good stone, and good climbing. This applies particularly the upper tier. Despite the short (and presently dry) approach, lack of ivy, and solid stone, and moderate grades, this crag hasn't seemed to have gotten popular. I suppose it is still waiting to be discovered by the masses. Perhaps the lower pitches that gate the best climbing above keep the masses away, but it is, nonetheless, a great crag for a pair of climbers to dedicate a day to.
Drive 7.3 miles up canyon to mile 25.8. Park in a long paved pullout on the left and look across the creek to see the 'Stewardess Convention Crag.' Just downstream of that, back down the hill to your left, is an obvious pinnacle around which the stream bends Southward. That is the Pilot Knob.
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Pilot Knob:
Stress Fracture 5.7 Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet
Scoop Up a Little Sky 5.9+ Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet
Featured Route For Pilot Knob
This climb presents a fairly distinct crux in that there is really only one or two moves at the grade. The rest is easier. Short climbers might find it more challenging, however, as the crux is on good holds that could be reachy for them.Climb up into the corner, protecting whenever possible, and reach up to surprisingly good holds on the right side. Move up into the corner and easier climbing to the top and a bolted anchor....[more] Browse More Classics in CO