Lower Tier of Pilot Knob from the nice little area...
A primarily shady crag, Pilot Knob faces Northwest. With that aspect comes some of the usual suspects: vegetation, lichen, moss, etc., on some of the crag. Other parts of the crag are clean, strikingly good stone, and good climbing. This applies particularly the upper tier. Despite the short (and presently dry) approach, lack of ivy, and solid stone, and moderate grades, this crag hasn't seemed to have gotten popular. I suppose it is still waiting to be discovered by the masses. Perhaps the lower pitches that gate the best climbing above keep the masses away, but it is, nonetheless, a great crag for a pair of climbers to dedicate a day to.
The better climbs there were the following moderates: Stress Fracture
(5.7) Touch and Go
(5.7+) Scoop Up a Little Sky
("5.8+" (+++)) Ejector Seat
Drive 7.3 miles up canyon to mile 25.8. Park in a long paved pullout on the left and look across the creek to see the 'Stewardess Convention Crag.' Just downstream of that, back down the hill to your left, is an obvious pinnacle around which the stream bends Southward. That is the Pilot Knob.
While the traditional approach is to wade the stream below Stewardess and then walk down a ways to Pilot Knob, presently there is a very large tree that has fallen across the stream and one can climb into its end, then walk "down" the tree to cross the creek completely dry. From there, it is a 3 minute walk to the base of the crag.
Weather station 9.3 miles from here
14 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',9],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Pilot Knob
Flight Simulator 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c CO
: ... : Lower Tier
Begin on lichen-covered rock left of the roof (see: Autopilot) and try to avoid the vegetation as you climb toward some opposing flakes. Continue up, staying out of the Cockpit gash to the left, and toward the large tree at a large ledge....[more] Browse More Classics in CO
Local Information for Pilot Knob
Latest Regional Forum Messages
Tree crossing from the "other" side of the water.
BETA PHOTO: Chris Parks on a 6am crossing to Pilot Knob. That...
By John Marsella
From: Berthoud, CO
Jun 30, 2013
In his excellent guide from Sharp End Publishing, Gillett offers the advice that, if you wish to climb the "Third Tier," you can, but it's not worth the time; and he suggests eschewing the rap bolts for the 4th-class downclimb.
Also of note: Parking GPS coords: 40.173458,-105.362147
By Justin Brunson
From: Broomfield CO
Jul 28, 2013
As of July '13, the tree crossing is still bomber.