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Pilot Knob
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Crop Duster 
Ejector Seat 
Scoop Up a Little Sky 
Stress Fracture 
Touch and Go 

Pilot Knob 


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Elevation: 6,200'
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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Tony B on Aug 24, 2011

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Description 

A primarily shady crag, Pilot Knob faces Northwest. With that aspect comes some of the usual suspects: vegetation, lichen, moss, etc., on some of the crag. Other parts of the crag are clean, strikingly good stone, and good climbing. This applies particularly the upper tier. Despite the short (and presently dry) approach, lack of ivy, and solid stone, and moderate grades, this crag hasn't seemed to have gotten popular. I suppose it is still waiting to be discovered by the masses. Perhaps the lower pitches that gate the best climbing above keep the masses away, but it is, nonetheless, a great crag for a pair of climbers to dedicate a day to.

The better climbs there were the following moderates:

Stress Fracture (5.7)
Touch and Go (5.7+)
Scoop Up a Little Sky ("5.8+" (+++))
Ejector Seat (5.9+).


Getting There 

Drive 7.3 miles up canyon to mile 25.8. Park in a long paved pullout on the left and look across the creek to see the 'Stewardess Convention Crag.' Just downstream of that, back down the hill to your left, is an obvious pinnacle around which the stream bends Southward. That is the Pilot Knob.

While the traditional approach is to wade the stream below Stewardess and then walk down a ways to Pilot Knob, presently there is a very large tree that has fallen across the stream and one can climb into its end, then walk "down" the tree to cross the creek completely dry. From there, it is a 3 minute walk to the base of the crag.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Pilot Knob:
Stress Fracture   5.7     Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet   
Scoop Up a Little Sky   5.9+     Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
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Featured Route For Pilot Knob

Touch and Go 5.7+  CO : Lyons : ... : Pilot Knob
This climb presents a fairly distinct crux in that there is really only one or two moves at the grade. The rest is easier. Short climbers might find it more challenging, however, as the crux is on good holds that could be reachy for them.Climb up into the corner, protecting whenever possible, and reach up to surprisingly good holds on the right side. Move up into the corner and easier climbing to the top and a bolted anchor....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO