|Type:||TR, 1 pitch, 100'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 14 British: VS 4c [details]|
|Submitted By:||ShockSLL on Nov 29, 2009|
|Comments on Pilot Error aka Right Chicken Bone||Add Comment|
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From: Winston-Salem, NC
Aug 31, 2011
When Jeff Dillon was writing the draft for the pocket guide to Pilot Mtn., the left one of two on that face was commonly called 'Chicken Bone'. Few people were doing the one to the right, partly because the anchor bolt heads look rusty, and there was no commonly used name for it. As for others, Jeff listed it as 'Unnamed'. Soon after the first edition was available through the Carolina Climbers Coalition website, Steve Lineberry objected by comment there to the naming, based on the map and description in the Kelley guide chapter for one route there.
In the second edition of the pocket guide, Jeff complied with Steve's argument and swapped the listings. Because both editions are in use, there is still some confusion. To solve that, at ClimbPilotNC.us they are listed as 'Chicken Bone Left' and 'Chicken Bone Right', following a re-naming in Jeff's second edition of a 'Pee Break Left' to name 'Pee Break Right' for anchors that were not in the Kelley chapter. Since then, the Park superintendent has adopted the second edition of Jeff's pocket guide as the "preferred" reference for routes at Pilot.
From: Charlotte, NC
Sep 1, 2011
Thanks for the comments guys. Recently in Erica's research for the new Piedmont Guidebook which includes Pilot, we uncovered some calling this route Pilot Error. To have disctinct naming, she is probably going to use Pilot Error as the name of this route in the new guidebook unless we receive conflicting information.
I still feel like the Kelly guide shows the right facing crack as Chicken Bone, it also doesn't list the route in the middle and it seems even before Jeff's guide, that middle route is the one that most people called Chicken Bone. Who's to say that the Kelly Guide is 100% correct. The topo could easily have been incorrectly drawn for this route.
If anyone has any additional information about this, we welcome the discussion as we are having a hard time finding historic information for the area.
By Crushin' Prussian
From: carrboro, nc
Jun 3, 2013
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
|This is a fun lead. The first section is easy to protect and then it gets a little run out to just before the ledge. From there I went left and followed the crack trending back toward the right and finished at the super shuts. Mostly smaller pieces work.|