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Pillars of Hercules (right var.)
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.5 from 27
votes
Routes in Potrillo Cliffs
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Ardeidae Arete T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Belly Flop T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Belly Up T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Call of the Crane T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Car Camping with the Kids T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cave Route Center T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Chuckwalla T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chuckwalla Right T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Cindy's Chimney T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Desperate (Left) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Double Trouble TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Dream of White Gerbils S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Fickle Fingers T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Fool on the Hill S,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Grandstanding T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Grandstanding Right T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Gymnast T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Heron's Fissure T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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I Wish I Had Some Feet T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Jane T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Kor's Dog T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Left Cave Route T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Lower Kor's Crack T,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Pieces of Eight T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pillars of Hercules (left var.) T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Pillars of Hercules (right var.) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Porky's Bad Luck T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Right Cave Route T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Route 1 TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Route 1.5 T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Route 19 T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Route 4 T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Shaky Flake T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Sleeper T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Tarzan T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Upper Kor's Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 45 ft (14 m) |
| FA: | G. Bell + LA Mountaineers, 1955 |
| Page Views: | 2,034 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Wenker on Mar 24, 2008 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
This is route #18 in the on-line guide, which calls it "The most classic and popular route at Potrillo, with a wide variety of climbing techniques in a short distance."
The Pillars of Hercules route is easily identified by the two massive buttresses that mark the prow of the cliff. The climb has two start variations; both starts lead to the base of a broad chimney betwixt the two mighty pillars.
This right start variation requires one first to mantle onto the right side of the large, flat-topped boulder/pillar that marks the base of the climb. The crux is moving off the right side of this boulder, getting to a stance below the twin fist cracks in the back of the broad chimney. The left twin crack seems to protect better.
The Pillars of Hercules route is easily identified by the two massive buttresses that mark the prow of the cliff. The climb has two start variations; both starts lead to the base of a broad chimney betwixt the two mighty pillars.
This right start variation requires one first to mantle onto the right side of the large, flat-topped boulder/pillar that marks the base of the climb. The crux is moving off the right side of this boulder, getting to a stance below the twin fist cracks in the back of the broad chimney. The left twin crack seems to protect better.
Protection
The crux is fairly easily protected, but a fall here will very possibly land you back on the flat-topped pillar. The top twin cracks eat up medium/large cams.
Popular to top-rope; a 2-bolt anchor, reachable from the top, was recently re-installed (please don't sling the tree anymore). There's also abundant opportunities for a gear anchor on top if you like.
Popular to top-rope; a 2-bolt anchor, reachable from the top, was recently re-installed (please don't sling the tree anymore). There's also abundant opportunities for a gear anchor on top if you like.
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