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 ADVANCED
Potrillo Cliffs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ardeidae Arete T,TR 
Belly Flop T,TR 
Belly Up T,TR 
Call of the Crane T,TR 
Car Camping with the Kids T,TR 
Cave Route Center T,TR 
Chuckwalla T,TR 
Chuckwalla Right T,TR 
Cindy's Chimney T,TR 
Desperate (Left) T,TR 
Double Trouble TR 
Dream of White Gerbils S,TR 
Fickle Fingers T,TR 
Fool on the Hill S,TR 
Grandstanding T,TR 
Gymnast T,TR 
Heron's Fissure T,TR 
Jane T,TR 
Kor's Dog T,TR 
Left Cave Route T,TR 
Lower Kor's Crack T,TR 
Pieces of Eight T,TR 
Pillars of Hercules (left var.) T,TR 
Pillars of Hercules (right var.) T,TR 
Porky's Bad Luck T,TR 
Right Cave Route T,TR 
Route 1 TR 
Route 1.5 T,TR 
Route 19 T,TR 
Route 4 T,TR 
Shaky Flake T,TR 
Sleeper T,TR 
Tarzan T,TR 
Upper Kor's Crack T,TR 

Pillars of Hercules (left var.) 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: G. Bell + LA Mountaineers, 1955
Page Views: 797
Submitted By: Chris Wenker on Feb 18, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: Pillars of Hercules, left variation, 5.7, Potrillo...

Description 

This is route #18 in the on-line guide.
The Pillars of Hercules route is easily identified by the two massive buttresses that mark the prow of the cliff. The climb has two start variations; both starts lead to the base of a broad chimney betwixt the two mighty pillars.
This left start variation requires one first to mantle onto the left side of the large, flat-topped boulder/pillar that marks the base of the climb. The crux is moving left off this boulder and getting to the stance below the twin fist cracks in the back of the broad chimney. The left twin crack seems to protect better. This is a great beginner trad lead, once you feel comfortable with the low crux.

Location 

This is the leftmost (westernmost) route on the south wall.

Protection 

The crux is fairly easily protected, but a fall here might land you back on the flat-topped pillar. The top twin cracks eat up medium/large cams.
Popular to top-rope; a 2-bolt anchor, reachable from the top, was recently re-installed (please don't sling the tree anymore). There's also abundant opportunities for a gear anchor on top if you like.



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