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Poke-O-Moonshine Main Face
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Pillar 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Geoff Smith, Gary Allan, Dave Hough
Page Views: 555
Submitted By: Simon Thompson on Sep 4, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Ben Botelho follows the right side of Pillar(5.7),...
  • Access is limited in the spring and summer due to peregrine falcon nesting; so there are some closures. Checking with the Adirondack Climbers Coalition or the NYDEC can provide the closure status.
  • Seasonal Peregrine Falcon Closures; Stay on public land MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This pillar has a fun route on either side of the it. Both routes are about the same difficulty, though I think the route on the right side is slightly harder and more sustained.

    Right side: Climb into crack in the corner and follow it up to the top(hands and offwidth.) The crack features satisfying jams and can also be lie-backed. I found the crux to be near the middle of the pillar, though the route is fairly sustained until the top 10 feet.

    Left side: Climb on the left side of the pillar, using the crack in the corner in combination with good ledges and jugs further to the left. The difficult moves are broken by rests on big holds.


    Location 

    Walk downhill and to climbers' right of the Discord Area, past the start of The Snake, and past a vegetated section of the cliff, you sill see a broken pillar leaning against the cliff. The routes are on either side of this.


    Protection 

    There is a fixed anchor on top. Be aware of what the rope is running over if you choose to TR the pillar.

    Right side: Protection is readily available but consider saving a BD#4 for the crux or bringing an extra.

    Left side: Protection is a little more sparse on this side but all the difficult moves are well-protected.



    Photos of Pillar Slideshow Add Photo
    Right side of Pillar. The crack was quite large at points. I had my whole arm inside for a fair amount of the climb.
    BETA PHOTO: Right side of Pillar. The crack was quite large at...
    Comments on Pillar Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Mike McLean
    Jul 16, 2012
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    For some reason, Adirondack Rock gives this a single star. IMHO, it is FAR better than that (at least the right side -- this may be the first time I disagree with a AR star rating). As far as I'm concerned, if P1 of Ladder merits 2 stars, this one goes at 4 :)

    That being said, I've just started at this grade so I don't have tons of comparison points.

    GEAR BETA: For chickens like me, you can easily stitch this thing as long as you have big gear. Being the third person in my group to lead it, I knew that I could easily place 3 #4, 2 #5 and 2 #2 ... which I did :|

    The climber who lead it just before me got away with much less big gear by using the right hand side a bit more than I did.

    By garyjutah
    Aug 3, 2012

    The lookers right side is much better then the left side.

    By Daniel Israel
    Oct 17, 2013
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    Perhaps I'm a newbie, but I very much enjoyed this climb. Maybe because I find it aesthetic and simply cool. Very hard for 5.7 though.