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Pillar is a short route that starts at the same platform as Dihedral One and Common Denominator. It climbs a corner on the left side of a prominent pillar that lies to the left (north) of these routes.
Climb up flakes and cracks and step right to a right-facing corner. Climb the corner, clip a bolt, and step up right to the 2-bolt anchor.
Some fun moves, but lots of lichen since the route has seen little traffic. Barely gets one star.
Gear to 2" and one bolt to a 2-bolt anchor. Edit: The bolt and anchor have been removed -- be careful.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 14, 2007
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b
Not really worth the effort.
|By Julius Beres|
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 20, 2008
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c
The description says gear to a 2 bolt anchor. I could not find an anchor... the rocks up top look a bit loose and I'm not sure what I would bolt. I built a gear anchor and walked off to the left.
I did this and Dihedral 1 and they both seemed substantially easier than 5.7. Comparing to other trad climbs in the area, I would say they are no harder than Breezy on the Wind Tower in Eldo (which is 5.4) and certainly not as hard as Tigger there which goes at 5.5. I suppose it depends on what you are comparing them to, but calling this a 5.7 trad climb just doesn't seem right. It is orders of magnitude easier than North Face Center (5.7) on Cob Rock (or Empor (5.7+)).
I don't like it when people sandbag, but everyone I was with thought these were easy, and if North Face Center on Cob is setting the 5.7 standard for Boulder Canyon trad, then these ought to be several grades easier.
|By Tanner Mitchell|
From: Fort Collins CO
Mar 14, 2009
Definitely boltless and anchorless. I ended up climbing to the anchors for Dihedral One (not recommended, massive rope drag). I think there's one or two 5.7 moves in the corner, right off the ledge.