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Pillar Talk is located on the tall white pillar to the south of and directly across from the first parking lot in Willow Springs. Approach by heading down the Hidden Falls trail, take the SMYC Trail that branches to the left and as you cross the wash cut right and head straight for the feature up faint trails. Alternatively, you can approach as per Hidden Falls Wall and once there, contour to the left, east, around the base of the crags for about 100 yards.
This route gets an R rating from the guide books for the 5.4 run-out on pitch 2. We felt this section to be an easy jaunt up low angle slabs with a few opportunities for protection.
Pitch 1: On the right side of the pillar, climb the crack through wide sections. At the roof, do a fun hand traverse left on to the arÍte. Move up the face to belay in a crack above some tall grass. (5.7, 150 feet)
Pitch 2: Continue up the white face on balls, to the top of the pillar. (5.4 PG, 50 feet)
Variation: On pitch 1, rather than traversing left, climb the crack through the roof then catch up the regular route that is to the left. (5.10b)
Descent: Go right and rappel with two ropes from slings around a pine tree. This is the top of the route Sleeper.
Standard rack to #4 Camalot, doubles in #3 and #3.5 help.
BETA PHOTO: Pillar Talk
Jesse Patchett part way up the first pitch of Pill...
Jesse Patchett overcoming the roof on the first pi...
Jesse Patchett at the belay ledge at the top of Pi...
Ron Graham approaching the top of Pitch 1.
Ron Graham on the easy second pitch. It's almost ...
Jesse Patchett on the top block of the Pillar.
Traversing just before the slab begins.
|By Ron Graham|
Jul 26, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
This climb is tons of fun! It's shaded in the morning, so it can even be climbed in the middle of the summer (we did!) The crux is probably about 2/3 the way up the crack where some awkward moves are required to get past a protrusion. The face on the left has lots of great holds, but offers little or no protection. The face on the right offers few holds until the angle of it backs off just below the roof. The traverse below the roof might look scary from the ground, but has lots of finger and toe holds and is one of the funnest parts of the climb. This climb can easily be done with a single 60 meter rope. Rather than rappel it, scramble left at the top until you find a cairned ramp back down to the base of the cliff.
Jan 30, 2012
Sleeper raps nicely with a 70 to a low ledge that has a short, easy downclimb or optional second rap (12 feet or so) to the base. Way more pleasant than the walkoff.
This is a fun route but if you believe that 5.7 bit, I've got some property to sell you on the Brooklyn Bridge....
2nd pitch is heads up-easy climbing, but if you fell off of it or broke a hold, you might be PGing yourself into an ICU. Climb light.
|By Patrick Mulligan|
Feb 14, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
I have to agree with SP/S on this. Its been years since I did this, but I remember getting a little gripped on the easy climbing on the second pitch. While there is a little gear there, the rock is very soft and if not careful you could go for one hell of a ride.
Nov 10, 2013
Awesome!!! Loved every minute of it!!! Must do!!! Hiked up to Chocolate Tranquility to make it a 3 pitch excursion and this is absolutely the way to go!!! So much fun!!! Hike down a ways and rap from unknown 5.8 area