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 ADVANCED
The Goblet Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Pillar of Pucker T,S,TR 
Snap Happy S 
Wasp's Up, Doc? T,TR 

Pillar of Pucker 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: (probably Jerry and Duane ~2011? - will check the guide)
Page Views: 97
Submitted By: Justin Johnsen on Mar 18, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Tim gets a hand in the correct side at the start o...

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Description 

A 5.7 or 5.8 start on a fist crack, where you'll place your first pro on the right - place it beside the first block of the pillar; the second and third are fully detached from the bedrock (causing the involuntary pucker reflex when your hand first goes UNDER one). Make easier moves clipping two bolts to the right (in lieu of trad pro on those suspect blocks) to reach the gully. Avoid much loose stuff here. Now follow the left arete past another bolt or two, and the move from the final bolt to the anchor is the crux. Going left as the routesetter intends makes a 5.10c finish using underclings and friction. Keeping to the arete or going right around the corner makes for a 5.9ish balancy or edge-stepping finish move.

Location 

Sunny southeast side (climber's left) of the Goblet Wall. Look for a small inset pillar made of three discrete blocks, with a wider crack on the right, a fingertip crack to the left, and a gully above.

Protection 

Place one piece of wide trad pro (3" to 4"?) in the right crack, clip four or five bolts, then something to rap off the anchors when done.

Tim noticed the bolt hangars are factory stamped 2011. Cosmetic flat gray spray pain appears to have been applied to blend in visually with the granite.

Not sure if you can access this to toprope from the tier above, we led it.


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