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Redgarden - S Buttress
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Pilgrim 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Todd Montgomery, Mike Brooks, & Dan Hruby, 1987
Fixed Hardware: 4 Lead Bolts, 2 Anchor Bolts [details]
Page Views: 784
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jun 17, 2003
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  • Description 

    Pilgrim has some great climbing and mild (safe) runouts, but in my opinion it is not nearly as classic as comparable routes on the Bulge wall proper. Begin by climbing the first pitch of Pseudo Sidetrack and belaying at the obvious tree (as of 2003 this tree is just barely hanging on for its life). Look up and see a lone bolt slightly right (High Noon), and a pair of bolts slightly left (Pilgrim). Make difficult moves past these and head up past an optional small stopper placement and two more bolts. The crux (and best moves on the route) comes just past the fourth bolt -- it looks improbable but the edges keep appearing. It has a two bolt anchor with links.

    P.S.: High Noon is a total sandbag at 5.11a, whereas Pilgrim felt right on at 10d - a good way to put up a TR if you're near your limit.


    Protection 

    A fixed pin and four bolts to a two-bolt anchor.



    Comments on Pilgrim Add Comment
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    By david goldstein
    Jun 28, 2003

    We, me, my partner and Rossiter feel the crux is by the the first bolt. I thought this pitch was not a give away for the grade (much harder than Backtalk which I'd done immediately prior.) The climbing rock and position on the "slab" (above the second bolt) are quite nice. This route is similar to its sister routes, Blackwalk, Backtalk etc., but the ambience is more out there and the rock is unpolished. For those shorter than 5'7" the move above the 4th bolt could raise the difficulty and severity of the pitch.

    Continuously interesting after the 1st 10 feet.

    Typical Eldo crux, the rating seems accurate once you figure out the trick. There is also some 5.10 climbing by the 3rd and 4th bolts.

    By Scott Bennett
    Jun 3, 2011
    rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

    Definitely a fun, worthwhile route on good rock with cool position.

    There are two-bolt anchors at the start and finish of this pitch.

    To descend, you can easily rap from top of the route back to the two-bolt anchor at the start (80'), and then make an angling rap along the Pseudo-Sidetrack ramp back to the ground (110', or 100' with 4th class downclimbing).

    By Steve Annecone
    From: boulder
    Jun 4, 2011
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

    Excellent route with lots of sustained face climbing on small holds.

    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    May 15, 2012
    rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13

    A climb with bolts where you need them, a few small steel or brass nuts from OK stances, and a few places where you just have to go for it. None of it was dangerous, but plenty of it was exciting. If it had been more closely protected, it would be less of a route. This one was done 'just right' for that kind of experience.
    I thought the true crux was at the section between the first and second bolt (you can clip #2 before the move if you are mildly creative), but up top the moves are thin and if you didn't take your rests, that might feel just as hard.