2014 Update: Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and all seasonal raptor closure areas on U.S. Forest Service land will be re-opened August 1, 2014 for climbing.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
This route is super fun with an array of different kinds of movement on a short rock. Start by making some delicate slab moves into a bulge with small, but positive crimpers. Traverse under the roof via more intense crimping and pull into the roof on good finger buckets. Make a powerful move to a giant jug and then power up through more good crimping. Just a great route!
I really liked this route -- the ledge after the traverse makes it too tempting to rest/shake out before pulling through the crux to the upper arete. Both versions, 12b or 12c direct makes for a nice route with many different types of climbing (slab, crimping, power, laybacks, etc.) protecting the anchors.
By Joe Collins Jun 20, 2003 rating: 5.12b7b26VIII+26E5 6b
I did this the other day via the 12b way, and I have to say that this version is nowhere near as indirect as Rolofson's guide states. All the holds you use to skip the 12c section are within 2-3 feet to the right of the 4th bolt. I agree that going way right to the rest is pretty indirect, but firing straight up the bulge (the 12c way), dynoing to the jug and skipping all the good holds just to the right, is very contrived. Good route though.
The name "Piles of Trials" comes from an old Moody Blues song with the refrain "Face piles of trials with smiles...." While equipping the climb, I was in the midst of severe back pain. As I was moving my pack at the base of the climb, the ACL in my right knee exploded! I got a knee brace and came out of my hospital bed for the first ascent. Then I took up golf, and the rest is history.... For historical information, FA 2 April 1996.
Sorry to contradict, but I felt that the 12b right variation was way contrived, traversing away from the obvious line and that the 12c dyno was the natural way to go. Besides that, the dyno is possibly the wildest single move I have done on any route in Boulder Canyon! If you think you know how to dyno, then go out and give this amazing huck a try.
By Aeon Aki Administrator Jul 15, 2007 rating: 5.12b7b26VIII+26E5 6b
Spectacular! Both versions seem perfectly legit to me, but the dyno (from the sharp flake left and the flaky sidepull right) is simply awesome. Pumpy before and after that too. Just a great sport climb.
Contrived? I think you should do it the way it looks most fun. I threw a right knee pad on and jammed it in near the top at the rest. I guess this makes the route 10b/c the way I did it. Either way you do it, its a good route and climbs alot better than it looks. The moves on the top after the jug horn are super fun. I smiled when I did this route....
By Jack Sparrow From: denver, co Nov 3, 2012 rating: 5.12c7b+27IX-27E6 6b
This route is super good, you must do the dyno. It's amazing and may be one of the sickest moves I've done on a Boulder area climb. Also, maybe it's just me, but I stuck the dyno my first try but could not link the moves after, and they are turning out to be the crux for me. Anyone have beta they want to share?
I only did the route once for the onsight recently, but I clearly remember using a small, sharp crimp for the right hand that has a tick on it. Locking off on that and getting your left foot up on the jug (the one you dyno to) is the crux. Once you're standing on the jug with your left foot, I bear hugged the block the rest of the way. Have fun with it. It's a great route. The 12a to the left of this is awesome too....