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Ice ClimbingClassic moderate mixed climbing and skiing can be had in the Bottomless Pit cirque below the north face of Pike's Peak. Take the toll road ($10 per person) to a flat area at around mile 14 where the road curves close to the eastern drop-off before heading around the west side of the final climb to the summit. Head from the car pretty much straight over (East) to the edge, scramble down and either traverse pretty much level to the South or descend any number of gullies to the bottom of the Bottomless Pit. Looking up at the N face, you will see a rock buttress forming the NE edge of the face. The couloir to the right is the Railroad couloir and to the right of that is the distinctive Y couloir. Further right is a pale buttress of rock with a deep gully on either side -this is the Corinthian column and the gullies ice up in fall to provide moderate mixed climbs. Beware of the necessity to be back at your car by 4pm or you will get a ticket and may be locked in when they close the gates at the bottom of the road. Also note that the road opens at 9am and is subject to partial closure, depending on plowing (call 719.385.PEAK for conditions). Getting ThereFrom Colorado Springs, go west on US Highway 24 past Manitou Springs and through a narrow canyon. Just as the canyon opens up again, you will see signs for Pikes Peak and turn left at a light, then left again through an arch about a half-mile up. The entrance is another ~3/4 miles along. Points of Interest / AltitudesMM 2: Camera Point: overlooks Ute Pass, US 24, and Cascade, 8220'. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Pike's Peak:
Y Couloir Alpine, 2000 feet North Face of Pike's Peak
Blind Assumption WI5 M5 Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 3 pitches, 400 feet North Face of Pike's Peak
Total Abandon WI4+ M6 Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 3 pitches, Grade III North Face of Pike's Peak
Featured Route For Pike's Peak
The Ole 6 5.11 WI3 M6+ CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : North Face of Pike's Peak
The #6 is a excellent mixed/drytool route located on the Corinthian Column of Pike's Peak. Steep and sustained, with a huge roof at the top, this route is not to be missed. P1) Start with a thin smear of ice up a gully to a nice ledge. 100 feet, WI3.P2) Climb up the detatched flake on the right side, continue up corner and belay on a sloping ledge. 100 feet, M5.P3) Ascend a weird, flare-y slot (#5 useful) and climb up easier terrain to belay in a alcove below the roof. 100 feet, M5/6...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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