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Elevation: 14,107 ft
GPS: 38.8406, -105.044
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 52,164 total · 210/month
Shared By: Hamish Gowans on Oct 21, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

Ice Climbing Suggest change

Classic moderate mixed climbing and skiing can be had in the Bottomless Pit cirque below the north face of Pike's Peak. Take the toll road ($10 per person) to a flat area at around mile 14 where the road curves close to the eastern drop-off before heading around the west side of the final climb to the summit. Head from the car pretty much straight over (East) to the edge, scramble down and either traverse pretty much level to the South or descend any number of gullies to the bottom of the Bottomless Pit. Looking up at the N face, you will see a rock buttress forming the NE edge of the face. The couloir to the right is the Railroad couloir and to the right of that is the distinctive Y couloir. Further right is a pale buttress of rock with a deep gully on either side -this is the Corinthian column and the gullies ice up in fall to provide moderate mixed climbs. Beware of the necessity to be back at your car by 4pm or you will get a ticket and may be locked in when they close the gates at the bottom of the road. Also note that the road opens at 9am and is subject to partial closure, depending on plowing (call 719.385.PEAK for conditions).

At the moment, there are very similar entries here on the N. Face of Pike's Peak. One was located in the Alpine Rock section, but it was moved here, because it really wasn't rock climbing. These 2 sections will be combined after careful consideration.

Getting There Suggest change

From Colorado Springs, go west on US Highway 24 past Manitou Springs and through a narrow canyon. Just as the canyon opens up again, you will see signs for Pikes Peak and turn left at a light, then left again through an arch about a half-mile up. The entrance is another ~3/4 miles along.

The speed limit is 25 mph unless otherwise posted.

Points of Interest / Altitudes

Suggest change
MM 2: Camera Point: overlooks Ute Pass, US 24, and Cascade, 8220'.
MM 3: Crowe Gulch, 1st view of Pike's Peak, 8540'.
MM 3.5: Have you seen Bigfoot?
MM 6: Crystal Reservoir, 9160'.
MM 9.5: Halfway Picnic Ground, 9930'.
MM 10.5: Brown Bush: views of Tarryall Mtns., Mt. Princeton, Mt. Evans, 10,000'.
MM 11: views of N. Catamount, S. Catamount, & Crystal Reservoirs.
MM 11.5: Ski area, 10,600'.
MM 13: Glen Cove, 11,440'.
MM 14: Elk Park, 11,800'.
MM 16: Devil's Playground, views of "Switchbacks", Pikes Peak Reservoirs, Platte River Valley north to the Continental Divide, 12,780'.
MM 16.5: Bottomless Pit, view of Sangre De Cristos, Ghost Town Hollow Mine (~1500' below rock wall), 12,760'.
MM 18: Boulder Park, 13,380'.
MM 18.5: Sheep sign.
MM 19: Summit, view that inspired Katherine Lee Bates' "America the Beautiful" in 1893, 14,110'.

16 Total Climbs

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Location: Pike's Peak Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Pike's Peak

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI4+ M4-5
 38
Total Abandon
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
WI5 M5
 22
Blind Assumption
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
 24
Y Couloir
Alpine
M2-3 Mod. Snow PG13
 13
Right Couloir of Three Little Pi…
Mixed, Snow, Alpine 4 pitches
WI4 M5
 5
Blind Luck
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 5 pitches
M8
 5
Three Dragons
Trad, Mixed, Alpine 5 pitches
WI3-4 PG13
 4
Waltzing Matilda
Ice, Alpine
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI3-4 M5-
 6
Toga Party
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 4 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c WI3 M6+
 7
The Ole 6
Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Total Abandon N Face of Pike's Peak
 38
WI4+ M4-5 Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
Blind Assumption N Face of Pike's Peak
 22
WI5 M5 Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 3 pitches
Y Couloir N Face of Pike's Peak
 24
Alpine
Right Couloir of Three Litt… N Face of Pike's Peak
 13
M2-3 Mod. Snow PG13 Mixed, Snow, Alpine 4 pitches
Blind Luck N Face of Pike's Peak
 5
WI4 M5 Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 5 pitches
Three Dragons N Face of Pike's Peak
 5
M8 Trad, Mixed, Alpine 5 pitches
Waltzing Matilda Oil Creek Tunnel Area
 4
WI3-4 PG13 Ice, Alpine
Toga Party N Face of Pike's Peak
 6
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI3-4 M5- Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 4 pitches
The Ole 6 N Face of Pike's Peak
 7
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c WI3 M6+ Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine 4 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Pike's Peak »

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