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Haystack Mountain
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Central Corner T 
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Pika Alliteration T 
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Rapture, The T 
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Pika Alliteration 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 520', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jared Spaulding, Jake Koplen, & Jackson Smith August 3, 2010
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 782
Submitted By: Jared Spaulding on Nov 28, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Pika Illiteration (II 5.8) This route climbs the r...

Description 

There is a ledge system with trees 1/3 of the way up this route. Start below and left of this ledge system at a clump of trees high on the base of the north shoulder.

P.1 climb over some blocks, angling left up to a slab and then to a corner where one can set a semi-hanging belay off of TCUs and tricams. This provides a protected belay spot from the corner above (90)

P.2 climb the left facing corner above for about 183, passing the treed ledge system on the right and through a small bulge in the corner (5.6ish) Belay above bulge where angle lessens, or in my case, when you run out of rope. Some small grassy patches on this pitch (183)

P.3 Climb right up ramps and cracks and slabs to a giant ledge below and right of large, blocky, steep but short corner system (183)

P.4 Move left, up cracks to a steep left facing, hand/fist corner. Belay at top of corner (70 5.8 ish)

Fourth class terrain for 40 feet takes you to the top of the shoulder.


Location 

This route climbs the north shoulder of Haystack Mountain to the left of Flash Flood. It ends a couple hundred yards below the start of the North Face route on Haystack.


Protection 

SLCDs and nuts. A #4 Camalot useful on last pitch.



Photos of Pika Alliteration Slideshow Add Photo
The route's location on Haystack.
The route's location on Haystack.
Jackson Smith on the crux and final pitch of Pika Illiteration.
Jackson Smith on the crux and final pitch of Pika ...
Comments on Pika Alliteration Add Comment
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By Jared Spaulding
From: Central WY
Jan 25, 2011

Well Rob, you caught me there. It is definitely a typo. Thanks for the heads up. What it actually refers to is "Pat pika piles plastic peanuts, placing pockets of permanent precarious piles" or any thing else you can think up.

By will ar
From: Boston, MA
Aug 31, 2012

Climbed this route a few weeks ago and is a good link up with the north face if you're looking for something a little easier than flash flood. I would recommend climbing almost a full rope length for the first pitch so that you can reach a nice ledge instead of the hanging belay. It might be possible to do the whole thing in three pitches, but there would be huge amount of rope drag on the final pitch.