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The Starcastle
Routes Sorted
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Citadel, The S,TR 
Elliptical Seasons S 
Forces S 
Fountains of Light S 
Lady Of The Lake S 
Pig's Nose S 
Portraits S 
Silver Winds T 
To The Fire Wind T 
Warping The Gale S 

Pig's Nose 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: scott sills
Page Views: 256
Submitted By: richard magill on Dec 23, 2003

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Description 

A nice moderate to warm up for some of the harder lines down the hill. This is sort of a unique line as compared to much of Devil's Head. The rock at Devil's Head tends to be fine-grained with edges and sharp features, with the occasional band of crumbly large-grain choss cutting through (these large-grain sections don't have routes, for the most part).

Pig's Nose doesn't really fit any of this format - it is all very solid large grains and crystals up a blunt snout. Fun climbing, if not overly demanding.

Finding it: this is the furthest right route on the Starcastle. It is on a big pillar that sets up hill from most of the other climbing.


Protection 

8 bolts to anchors


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By Kevin Neilson
From: Boulder
Jul 17, 2006

Quickest access to Pig's Nose: when going down the trail from the campground towards the Zinn overlook, you may turn right (west) into the pine woods just after reaching the Zinn overlook. Head uphill a couple of hundred feet until you get to the base of the undeveloped portion of StarCastle. Head left (south) along the base a couple hundred feet until you reach the first bolted climb, Pig's Nose. If you go a bit further south (involving a short piece of downclimbing) you'll reach the other climbs on StarCastle. This is easier than approaching from the south. Almost all StarCastle climbs are in the shade after noon.

The first bolt is a bit high but a tall person shouldn't have much trouble clipping it from a good stance. You can place a piece in the crack if you wish to protect the clip. I jammed a #6 Eiger Hex in the crack before clipping.

The route comes recommended and has some interesting moves on the lower two-thirds, which has rock typical of the area. The large-grained portion mentioned in the introduction only applies to the top third of the route. I kicked off a seemingly important foothold moving past bolt 6, but I think the rating still holds.