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Pigeon, The Other White Meat 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Chris Miller & Euan Cameron, October 2007
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,134
Submitted By: C Miller on Oct 8, 2007
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Description 

This route is essentially a link-up of two existing routes, but it does climb some new terrain and is one the easier offerings in the immediate vicinity.

Climb Shattered Dreams for it's first two bolts and then cut sharply left into a nice steep hand crack. Work up into an alcove formed by stacked blocks and then into a high undercling. Power over the bulge on reachy jugs and then run it out a little on easier ground to join Peter Principle for it's last two bolts and anchors. It's possible to cut right to the anchors on Shattered Dreams as well, but you'll be making the finishing mantle quite aways off your last bolt and looking at a bad fall onto a ledge.

Steep, athletic and fun climbing at a moderate grade make this a nice warm-up for the area. Note: it's advised to clip the 2nd and 3rd bolt with long draws to lessen any possible rope drag.


Protection 

6 bolts, chain anchors (shared w/Peter Principle)



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Pigeon, The Other White Meat (5.10a), Riverside Quarry
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By Euan Cameron
Administrator
From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes
Oct 8, 2007
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b

Steep climbing on good but spaced out holds. The right exit is a little airy, but makes the climb last that little bit longer.

By Karl Rittger
From: Altadena, CA
Feb 24, 2014
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

The 3rd bolt in the picture of this climb is on the lower block to the left. It makes for a pretty heady lead because you might deck on the ledge. I've didn't see a bolt hole on the upper block where the picture shows that bolt.