The Pigeon Spire sits to the west of Snowpatch Spire dividing the Bugaboo and Vowell Glaciers. The classic West Ridge is by far the most popular route on the spire and the main descent for all other routes. The East face is the largest and most impressive side of the spire and easily viewable from the Pigeon Fork of the Bugaboo Glacier.
There are two approaches for the Pigeon Spire depending on your destination. For the North Face and the West Ridge take the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col to the Upper Vowell Glacier. For the South and East Faces take the Bugaboo Glacier West passing the South Face of Snowpatch along the way. Both approaches require glacier travel and can take one to two hours depending on the route your trying to get to.
Weather station 5.0 miles from here
2 Total Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Pigeon Spire
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Pigeon Spire:
West Ridge 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, Alpine, 1500'
Cooper-Kor 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
R Trad, Alpine, 18 pitches, 1000'
Featured Route For Pigeon Spire
West Ridge 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c North America
: ... : Pigeon Spire
The West Ridge on Pigeon Spire is one of the most classic climbs in the Bugaboo's. The route is not technically difficult, consisting of mostly 4th-class scrambling but the position and exposure are spectacular. The route follows the top of the ridge nearly the whole way climbing up and over two intermediate summits before topping out on the true summit. Simul-climbing the ridge is probably the best option if you want to go faster and still stay safe.From the low point on the ridge scramble e...[more] Browse More Classics in International
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