Pigeon Roof 

I climbed this again today and really enjoyed it. The crux might look like it's at the roof, but it's actually above the roof in the awkward crack. The width is just never quite right. Great easier climb with juggy holds to make the roof relatively straightforward.

I led this route on 03/15/03. and I must say that although the route has the potential to be fun I found it horrid. The entire upper section from just below the roof to the end stunk like urine and pigeon dung which was all over and impossible to avoid getting on you at least a little. A #5 Camalot would have made the upper crack more enjoyable but I was able to place a small cam deep in the crack by a bunch of bird crud.I will not climb this route again nor recommend it.

Benjamin Sanders

three stars is way too much for this route unless you like bird droppings. I say 0 - 1 star at best

rating held true

Benjamin,Did you not expect to find the leavings of pigeons in a climb called Pigeon Roof? I have noticed that the, shall we say, pungent smell of the little beasts tends to be more overpowering in the spring than at any other point during the year. At least none of the feathered guys decided to vacate the crack as you climbed past them. Man, their wings sound like a bomb going off. Not what you'd like to hear when you are sketching out ten feet above your last piece.

There is an old video of the late Derek Hersey soloing a hard route in Eldorado Canyon. As he's jamming the cack a pigeon flies out of the crack, straight into his face! Heresey had the mental strength and wherewithall to avoid falling. Lets face it, climbing (at least the best climbing) take place in nature. As I see it, wildlife, of the smelly avian variety, is a an intrinsic necessary evil. Pigeon Roof, though, that route's a pile.

I've had the little turds fly in my face on Double Overhang on Rainy Wed. Tower and on Bailey's Direct on Devil's Tower. Scared me silly both times.

Good route, in a bad way. One good piece in the back of the wide crack at the top if you are skinny enough to get your body in there or got long arms to reach it. A Big Bro might have helped!

Bring big gear for the top. I didn't and it's a long run-out.

If you own a #6 C4 you'll be able to use it here.