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Doorway Rocks - Minor Mass
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In the Heat of the Sun T,TR 
LadyFingers T,TR 
Manhandler T 
Mr Wizard and Tutor Turtle T,TR 
No Stranger to the Fist T,TR 
Obduracy T,TR 
Pigeon Roof T,TR 
Power of a Good Haircut TR 
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Saturday Forever T,TR 

Pigeon Roof 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 721
Submitted By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Feb 24, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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BETA PHOTO: It is possible to get a couple of good pieces abov...

Description 

This route is located to the left (south) of the large oak tree on the east face of the Minor Mass at the Doorway Rocks. The route is nice and long, about 80 feet, from the base of the rock to the top. Start out by working your way up to the "Saddle" ledge using easy ledges. Once on the saddle climb the crack to the right of the base of the fallen pine tree. Follow the crack up to the roof, and when you reach the roof continue straight up to the wider dihedral crack above.


Protection 

Standard Rack



Photos of Pigeon Roof Slideshow Add Photo
Jason Willis on Pigeon Roof, 11/10/02
Jason Willis on Pigeon Roof, 11/10/02
Pigeon Roof (9), No Stranger to the Fist (10), and Flotsam and Jetsam (11)
BETA PHOTO: Pigeon Roof (9), No Stranger to the Fist (10), and...
Pausing in the offwidth
Pausing in the offwidth
Pigeon Roof
BETA PHOTO: Pigeon Roof
Dave lookin' for love just below the roof.
Dave lookin' for love just below the roof.
Jason Willis getting up and over the roof on Pigeon Roof, 11/10/02.
Jason Willis getting up and over the roof on Pigeo...
Laura pulls the roof
Laura pulls the roof
First route even climbed by this woman (1985).  Not many roofs available at the Lake, eh?  For those in the know, that's "Garfield" hanging on Flotsam/Jetsom.
First route even climbed by this woman (1985). No...
Steve Zaleski leading Pigeon Roof.
Steve Zaleski leading Pigeon Roof.
Comments on Pigeon Roof Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tom Anderson-Brown
From: Madison, WI
Nov 10, 2002

I climbed this again today and really enjoyed it. The crux might look like it's at the roof, but it's actually above the roof in the awkward crack. The width is just never quite right. Great easier climb with juggy holds to make the roof relatively straightforward.

By Anonymous
Mar 17, 2003

I led this route on 03/15/03. and I must say that although the route has the potential to be fun I found it horrid. The entire upper section from just below the roof to the end stunk like urine and pigeon dung which was all over and impossible to avoid getting on you at least a little. A #5 Camalot would have made the upper crack more enjoyable but I was able to place a small cam deep in the crack by a bunch of bird crud.I will not climb this route again nor recommend it.

Benjamin Sanders

three stars is way too much for this route unless you like bird droppings. I say 0 - 1 star at best

rating held true

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Mar 21, 2003

Benjamin,Did you not expect to find the leavings of pigeons in a climb called Pigeon Roof? I have noticed that the, shall we say, pungent smell of the little beasts tends to be more overpowering in the spring than at any other point during the year. At least none of the feathered guys decided to vacate the crack as you climbed past them. Man, their wings sound like a bomb going off. Not what you'd like to hear when you are sketching out ten feet above your last piece.

There is an old video of the late Derek Hersey soloing a hard route in Eldorado Canyon. As he's jamming the cack a pigeon flies out of the crack, straight into his face! Heresey had the mental strength and wherewithall to avoid falling. Lets face it, climbing (at least the best climbing) take place in nature. As I see it, wildlife, of the smelly avian variety, is a an intrinsic necessary evil. Pigeon Roof, though, that route's a pile.

By Paul Huebner
From: Portage, WI
Aug 6, 2007

I've had the little turds fly in my face on Double Overhang on Rainy Wed. Tower and on Bailey's Direct on Devil's Tower. Scared me silly both times.

By Tradoholic
Jul 31, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Good route, in a bad way. One good piece in the back of the wide crack at the top if you are skinny enough to get your body in there or got long arms to reach it. A Big Bro might have helped!

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Aug 30, 2011

Bring big gear for the top. I didn't and it's a long run-out.

By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Oct 7, 2011

If you own a #6 C4 you'll be able to use it here.