Pigeon Paranoia 5.10+
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| Type: | Sport, TR, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.10b/c [details] |
| FA: | Jeff Engel |
| Submitted By: | Glenn Burns on May 16, 2006 |
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BETA PHOTO: Pigeon Paranoia
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Description Around the corner from Sleeping Bat in a Ziplock Bag. You'll run into a 8 foot block. Stem your way up between the wall and the block to the first bolt about 15 feet above and meander your way through a number of small holes. Work your way up, then left to the slab and enjoy the slightly run out slabby finish.
Location left of the large block and about 5 feet right of Piranha.
Protection 5 bolts and a two bolt anchor that should be replaced soon. The guide book indicates that the first bolt is missing. It is not, Jeff Engel - FA, removed the original first bolt as it didn't do much to protect the climb.
DP getting ready to move onto the topout slab.
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| Comments on Pigeon Paranoia |
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By Jonathan Williams From: Palo Alto, CA Mar 25, 2007 rating: 5.10b/c
| Very dirty, but nonetheless a fairly fun route. C'mon, this is RED WING. Brush of the holds with your fingers and keep going. ;) |
By ferrells From: Minneapolis, MN Nov 8, 2007 rating: 5.10c
| this is a pretty good route, and deserves to be climbed more. the moves at the top are different than most at red wing. a little more like a 5.9 alpine slab perhaps, only with nice bolts. anybody care to argue? kind of dirty - but we minnesotans can handle that with the best of 'em. maybe if we can come to consensus grade on this one, it will become a little more popular, and take some of the pressure off of jump start and sleeping bat. |
By Kris Gorny Administrator Nov 28, 2007 rating: 5.10c
| Agree with ferrells. Very fun and unusual, "exposed", crux. Watch out on the sharp holds below the hueco. I broke some off last time I was on it. |
By K Ice From: Saint Paul, MN Apr 11, 2008
| Great wrist slot in the hole right before the slab. Great climb! |
By Dan Roberts From: Eastern Iowa Feb 16, 2009 rating: 5.10c
| Fun and a bit puzzling climb on the first go. Second was really just for a good time. Wrist slot is critical and the blind foot placement into the pocket when mounting the slab is a riot. 10c sounds right. |
By Bob Kryzer From: Minnesota Apr 20, 2009 rating: 5.10c
| Offers three styles of climbing. Lower sections has very normal face climbing, the middle hueco section feels like a boulder problem, and to top it off, a exposed slab with a hidden hold on the top lip. |
By Luke Stoltzfus Jun 4, 2009
| It should probably be called "bat paranoia." My friend and I climbed it the other day and we unleashed 2 bats (1 each) when reaching into the hold just before the ascending to the slab. Made the route a little more exciting. Lot's of fun, though. |
By Josh Cox From: Andover, MN Mar 23, 2010
| The top section tricked me, I see now to head left to the slab, but I ended up going straight over the bulge. Seemed harder than .10a that way. |
By DankBird77 From: Fairfax, VA Jun 2, 2010 rating: 5.10a
| Enjoyable route with some fun puzzles to figure out. Dont think its quite .10c. It certainly wasnt harder than Frequent Flatulence which is 10b. |
By Chase Roskos From: Boulder, CO Oct 31, 2010 rating: 5.10b
| As of today the route was not too dirty. At least not more than every other route! Quite a nice climb though as many have said, and not too polished... shhhh! Don't let the word get out haha. |
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