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Pigeon Paranoia 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jeff Engel
Page Views: 1,353
Submitted By: Glenn Burns on May 16, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (48)
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BETA PHOTO: Pigeon Paranoia

Description 

Around the corner from Sleeping Bat in a Ziplock Bag. You'll run into a 8 foot block. Stem your way up between the wall and the block to the first bolt about 15 feet above and meander your way through a number of small holes. Work your way up, then left to the slab and enjoy the slightly run out slabby finish.

  • RCM&W #13, p. 117


Location 

left of the large block and about 5 feet right of Piranha.


Protection 

5 bolts and a two bolt anchor that should be replaced soon. The guide book indicates that the first bolt is missing. It is not, Jeff Engel - FA, removed the original first bolt as it didn't do much to protect the climb.



Photos of Pigeon Paranoia Slideshow Add Photo
DP getting ready to move onto the topout slab.
DP getting ready to move onto the topout slab.
Comments on Pigeon Paranoia Add Comment
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By Jonathan Williams
From: Palo Alto, CA
Mar 25, 2007
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Very dirty, but nonetheless a fairly fun route.

C'mon, this is RED WING. Brush of the holds with your fingers and keep going. ;)

By ferrells
From: Minneapolis, MN
Nov 8, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

this is a pretty good route, and deserves to be climbed more. the moves at the top are different than most at red wing. a little more like a 5.9 alpine slab perhaps, only with nice bolts. anybody care to argue? kind of dirty - but we minnesotans can handle that with the best of 'em. maybe if we can come to consensus grade on this one, it will become a little more popular, and take some of the pressure off of jump start and sleeping bat.

By Kris Gorny
Administrator
Nov 28, 2007
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Agree with ferrells. Very fun and unusual, "exposed", crux. Watch out on the sharp holds below the hueco. I broke some off last time I was on it.

By K Ice
From: Saint Paul, MN
Apr 11, 2008

Great wrist slot in the hole right before the slab. Great climb!

By Dan Roberts
From: Eastern Iowa
Feb 16, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Fun and a bit puzzling climb on the first go. Second was really just for a good time. Wrist slot is critical and the blind foot placement into the pocket when mounting the slab is a riot. 10c sounds right.

By Bob Kryzer
From: Minnesota
Apr 20, 2009
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

Offers three styles of climbing. Lower sections has very normal face climbing, the middle hueco section feels like a boulder problem, and to top it off, a exposed slab with a hidden hold on the top lip.

By Luke Stoltzfus
Jun 4, 2009

It should probably be called "bat paranoia." My friend and I climbed it the other day and we unleashed 2 bats (1 each) when reaching into the hold just before the ascending to the slab. Made the route a little more exciting. Lot's of fun, though.

By Josh Cox
From: Andover, MN
Mar 23, 2010

The top section tricked me, I see now to head left to the slab, but I ended up going straight over the bulge. Seemed harder than .10a that way.

By Andrew R.
From: Fairfax, VA
Jun 2, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Enjoyable route with some fun puzzles to figure out. Dont think its quite .10c. It certainly wasnt harder than Frequent Flatulence which is 10b.

By Chase Roskos
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 31, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

As of today the route was not too dirty. At least not more than every other route! Quite a nice climb though as many have said, and not too polished... shhhh! Don't let the word get out haha.