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 ADVANCED
Bluff Street Cracks
Routes Sorted
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Deface Crack T 
Freeze Dried Bat T 
Inspired and Perspired T 
Joseph Meeks T 
Pig Lloyd T 
Red Warrior T 
Wide Boy T 

Pig Lloyd 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: C. Cluff, C. Peterson
Page Views: 484
Submitted By: Jared R on Feb 5, 2010

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Sometimes closed in spring for raptor nesting

Description 

climb crack, jamming and liebacking up to the chain anchor.


Location 

a nice dihedral crack on the far east side of the Cliff. left of a nice Offwidth crack (Inspired and Perspired)


Protection 

Small gear to #3 camalot, bring a couple #1's and #2's.



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By Jared R
Feb 5, 2010

I thought that the route was much harder than a 5.9+. I was shut down on lead and top roped it after my buddy aided up to the chains. Not a great way to start a day of crack climbing.

By Kyle Wills
From: San Diego CA
May 5, 2010

Was only able to set up a top rope solo, but thoroughly enjoyed the route. Would love to rock it out on lead, I imagine it will be pretty stiff but 5.9+ seems right on for now. Difficult to spot where to set up anchors if on top of the bluffs, rappelled down too far to the left into a chossy monster, before re-positioning. Also this really is my first route on sandstone cracks having never been to any other Utah locations. So I may have found more enjoyment in it then others might.

By Hendo
From: Denver, CO
Nov 6, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

My description in three words: sandy, cobwebby, and bats.

This route was ridiculously dirty! The feet where sandy and crumbly, and the hand jams (the few that there were) were sandy and not very reassuring. Additionally, there's a family of bats that live way in the back of the crack and cobwebs throughout the crack. Not sure the last time someone lead this thing.

Definitely need a couple #1 and #2 cams. Thus, for me (5'11" 175lbs), it was thin hands the whole way w/o much feet support on the dihedral. A tough sweaty climb!