|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 60'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA:||C. Cluff, C. Peterson|
|Submitted By:||Jared R on Feb 5, 2010|
|Sometimes closed in spring for raptor nesting|
|Comments on Pig Lloyd||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Jared R
Feb 5, 2010
|I thought that the route was much harder than a 5.9+. I was shut down on lead and top roped it after my buddy aided up to the chains. Not a great way to start a day of crack climbing.|
By Kyle Wills
From: San Diego CA
May 5, 2010
|Was only able to set up a top rope solo, but thoroughly enjoyed the route. Would love to rock it out on lead, I imagine it will be pretty stiff but 5.9+ seems right on for now. Difficult to spot where to set up anchors if on top of the bluffs, rappelled down too far to the left into a chossy monster, before re-positioning. Also this really is my first route on sandstone cracks having never been to any other Utah locations. So I may have found more enjoyment in it then others might.|
From: Denver, CO
Nov 6, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
My description in three words: sandy, cobwebby, and bats.
This route was ridiculously dirty! The feet where sandy and crumbly, and the hand jams (the few that there were) were sandy and not very reassuring. Additionally, there's a family of bats that live way in the back of the crack and cobwebs throughout the crack. Not sure the last time someone lead this thing.
Definitely need a couple #1 and #2 cams. Thus, for me (5'11" 175lbs), it was thin hands the whole way w/o much feet support on the dihedral. A tough sweaty climb!