Pig Lloyd 5.9+
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | C. Cluff, C. Peterson |
| Submitted By: | Jared R on Feb 5, 2010 |
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Sometimes closed in spring for raptor nesting
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Description climb crack, jamming and liebacking up to the chain anchor.
Location a nice dihedral crack on the far east side of the Cliff. left of a nice Offwidth crack (Inspired and Perspired)
Protection Small gear to #3 camalot, bring a couple #1's and #2's.
By Jared R Feb 5, 2010
| I thought that the route was much harder than a 5.9+. I was shut down on lead and top roped it after my buddy aided up to the chains. Not a great way to start a day of crack climbing. |
By Kyle Wills From: San Diego CA May 5, 2010
| Was only able to set up a top rope solo, but thoroughly enjoyed the route. Would love to rock it out on lead, I imagine it will be pretty stiff but 5.9+ seems right on for now. Difficult to spot where to set up anchors if on top of the bluffs, rappelled down too far to the left into a chossy monster, before re-positioning. Also this really is my first route on sandstone cracks having never been to any other Utah locations. So I may have found more enjoyment in it then others might. |
By Ryan Henderson From: Pleasant View, UT Nov 6, 2012 rating: 5.10a
| My description in three words: sandy, cobwebby, and bats. This route was ridiculously dirty! The feet where sandy and crumbly, and the hand jams (the few that there were) were sandy and not very reassuring. Additionally, there's a family of bats that live way in the back of the crack and cobwebs throughout the crack. Not sure the last time someone lead this thing. Definitely need a couple #1 and #2 cams. Thus, for me (5'11" 175lbs), it was thin hands the whole way w/o much feet support on the dihedral. A tough sweaty climb! |
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