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> Sycamore Canyon
> Volunteer Canyo…
> S Side
> 5. The Iron Wall
Pig Iron
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3.5 from 38
votes
Routes in 5. The Iron Wall
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Birdsong T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Bong Route, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Cast Iron T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Detritus Spite Us T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Evening Breezeway T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Falconer, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Honey Cwm T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Iron Knee, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Iron Potato T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Iron Sharpens Iron T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Long Iron T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Low Pressure Zone T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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New Potato Caboose T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Pig Iron T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Steam Machine T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Surprise T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tire Iron T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | JJ Schlick, Seth Dyer, James Q Martin 2011 |
| Page Views: | 2,417 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | JJ Schlick on Sep 3, 2011 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
Pig Iron is a striking, almost elegant looking line when seen from across canyon. However, the harder climbing on this pitch is both a little bouldery and down home thin hands jamming. Bomber rock and gear from start to finish.
Rappel 90' to good mini tower ledge, one bolt belay- bring medium wires to supplement. From the ledge head up lower angle right facing dihedral with smeary foot edges. Mantle up onto very slopey ledge below the roof, and have a look at the first crux. A large left side pull rail allows passage through this somewhat thuggy section. This feature was formed by a 6 foot long flake which came off in my hands while scoping the line.
After the roof, jam your way through the next 40' of a splitter small hands crack. The angle doesn't seem steep, but the thin hands jamming will test you for sure. At the end of the splitter section follow the crack as it bends to the right past several easy boulder problems, and then romp to the top.
Johnny Cash, Rock Island Line
Rappel 90' to good mini tower ledge, one bolt belay- bring medium wires to supplement. From the ledge head up lower angle right facing dihedral with smeary foot edges. Mantle up onto very slopey ledge below the roof, and have a look at the first crux. A large left side pull rail allows passage through this somewhat thuggy section. This feature was formed by a 6 foot long flake which came off in my hands while scoping the line.
After the roof, jam your way through the next 40' of a splitter small hands crack. The angle doesn't seem steep, but the thin hands jamming will test you for sure. At the end of the splitter section follow the crack as it bends to the right past several easy boulder problems, and then romp to the top.
Johnny Cash, Rock Island Line
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