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> Colorado Springs
> Garden of the Gods
> N Gateway Rock
> Southwest Face / Fing…
Pig Dreams
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British PG13
Avg: 1.5 from 2
votes
Routes in Southwest Face / Finger Face
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Chatters S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Clip It or Skip It (aka Skip It or Clip It) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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East-Ledge Traverse T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 |
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Finger Ramp S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lower Finger Direct TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Lower Finger Traverse S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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No Ethics Required S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pig Dreams T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Place in the Sun S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Son of Tidricks S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tidrick's T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Upper Finger Direct S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a X |
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Upper Finger Traverse S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 115 ft (35 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Peter Gallagher & Fred Aschert - Spring, 1981 |
| Page Views: | 1,299 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Bosier Parsons on Oct 22, 2009 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal nesting closures
Details
Per Bret Tennis:
As of 3/29/23: the seasonal raptor closures are the same as in 2022 and recent years.
We have expanded the climbing closure for North Gateway Rock inside the Garden of the Gods. We expect our prairie falcons to fledge soon. Closures will be lifted once the raptors are safely flying and providing for themselves (or they leave the area).
Thank you,
Bret Tennis
Parks Operations Administrator
Garden of the Gods
Office: 719-219-0108
Bret.tennis@coloradosprings.gov
Old info:
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
From Larry, Colo Spgs City Staff (719-219-0108) on 11/10/19:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is now open for rock climbing. The climbing closures on Sleeping Giant and the West Side of Gray Rock remain closed.
From Larry, Colo Spgs City Staff (719-219-0108):
New seasonal climbing closure as of June 5, 2019:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
As of 3/29/23: the seasonal raptor closures are the same as in 2022 and recent years.
We have expanded the climbing closure for North Gateway Rock inside the Garden of the Gods. We expect our prairie falcons to fledge soon. Closures will be lifted once the raptors are safely flying and providing for themselves (or they leave the area).
Thank you,
Bret Tennis
Parks Operations Administrator
Garden of the Gods
Office: 719-219-0108
Bret.tennis@coloradosprings.gov
Old info:
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
From Larry, Colo Spgs City Staff (719-219-0108) on 11/10/19:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is now open for rock climbing. The climbing closures on Sleeping Giant and the West Side of Gray Rock remain closed.
From Larry, Colo Spgs City Staff (719-219-0108):
New seasonal climbing closure as of June 5, 2019:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Access Issue: 2024 Seasonal Closures - these are the same as 2023
Details
Per Bret Tennis, GOG Park Operations administrator: the seasonal closures are the same as in 2023 for 2024.
Previously per B. Tennis: all seasonal rock climbing closures in Garden of the Gods have been lifted for the season.
In 2023, they were the same as for 2022 and 2021.
Kindergarten/Gray Rock
North Gateway
Old info:
Previously: per Bret Tennis, as of 10/19/22: The Garden of the Gods has lifted all the seasonal rock climbing closures. Prior in 2020: seasonal raptor closures for 2020 were now lifted.
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
Closures as of June 5, 2019:
The Northern end of North Gateway Rock is closed for raptor nesting.
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
Continued climbing closures from 2018:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.
Previously per B. Tennis: all seasonal rock climbing closures in Garden of the Gods have been lifted for the season.
In 2023, they were the same as for 2022 and 2021.
Kindergarten/Gray Rock
North Gateway
Old info:
Previously: per Bret Tennis, as of 10/19/22: The Garden of the Gods has lifted all the seasonal rock climbing closures. Prior in 2020: seasonal raptor closures for 2020 were now lifted.
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
Closures as of June 5, 2019:
The Northern end of North Gateway Rock is closed for raptor nesting.
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
Continued climbing closures from 2018:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.
Description
This is a high quality route with a beautiful position high on the Finger Face of North Gateway Rock. Scramble up the Tourist Gully for a few hundred feet to a flat area with three large eyebolts. The climb is the second one to the left of Clip It Or Skip It, which is an obvious line with many many pitons spaced very closely together.
P1) Start from about the height of the eyebolts, and traverse in from the left. Undercling to get some high feet at the first piton, then continue traversing right past two more pitons. About five feet right of the third piton, step up and then back left on easier terrain, but a bit runout to the anchor. (5.9+, 45 feet).
P2) Step down from the anchor and then traverse right about ten feet to some easy ground up past some horns and along a sort of left-facing corner type formation. There are couple potholes where you could place a #2 or #4 Camalot, which is recommended, as otherwise, you climb about 30 feet to the first piton, which sticks out pretty far and would maybe rip if you fell on it. Continue up and right past the second piton, pulling up and right into an alcove which is climbed through the weakness in the headwall above. Watch out for loose rock, and piece together some great moves through the bulge and past 4 more pitons, eventually stepping left to the anchor. The crux is an awkward mantle-type move at the top of the headwall, but there's one more difficult move passing the final piton. (5.10a, 70 feet).
P1) Start from about the height of the eyebolts, and traverse in from the left. Undercling to get some high feet at the first piton, then continue traversing right past two more pitons. About five feet right of the third piton, step up and then back left on easier terrain, but a bit runout to the anchor. (5.9+, 45 feet).
- ** Two variations exist to this first pitch. One is a 5.11d TR climbing straight up the blank face to the third piton. The other is a 5.10R finish, which goes straight up from the third piton, instead of traversing right and up.
P2) Step down from the anchor and then traverse right about ten feet to some easy ground up past some horns and along a sort of left-facing corner type formation. There are couple potholes where you could place a #2 or #4 Camalot, which is recommended, as otherwise, you climb about 30 feet to the first piton, which sticks out pretty far and would maybe rip if you fell on it. Continue up and right past the second piton, pulling up and right into an alcove which is climbed through the weakness in the headwall above. Watch out for loose rock, and piece together some great moves through the bulge and past 4 more pitons, eventually stepping left to the anchor. The crux is an awkward mantle-type move at the top of the headwall, but there's one more difficult move passing the final piton. (5.10a, 70 feet).
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