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Pig Charmer 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Tom Caldwell
Page Views: 299
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Jul 22, 2009

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Slippery rock!
  • Located in the Lone Peak Wilderness Area MORE INFO >>>
  • Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    A line that is more difficult than it looks, with polished, slippery rock right where you don't want it.

    Start up a right-ward trending weakness finding pockets and learning to trust the glassy foot "holds." After the second bolt comes some difficult movement to clip the third bolt, followed by a few very delicate moves to larger holds above. After the fourth bolt the angle eases considerably and the water-polished rock gives way to rougher, more standard-looking limestone.


    Location 

    Second bolted line from the right on the west wall.


    Protection 

    5 bolts, chain anchors, shared with route to right (A Slab of Greasy Bacon).



    Comments on Pig Charmer Add Comment
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    By Perin Blanchard
    Administrator
    From: Orem, UT
    Jul 22, 2009

    This is a tricky, slippery line. There were three of us, all solid 5.11 climbers and this was the last route of the day as it was getting dark.

    I started up and got to the crux and found that my right foot didn't want to stick where I wanted it to go. I fooled with it for a bit until I finally put a bit too much weight on it and it skidded, as did the rest of me.

    After I figured it out and finished, the second of us (who had belayed and watched me struggle) started up. He got to the same spot and also skidded off.

    The third in our group, who had watched me and belayed the second, started up. In spite of (or maybe because of?) running beta he skidded off in the exact same spot.

    It reminded me of a time when I lived in an area where it rarely snowed and I watched a series of drivers all attempt to navigate an icy section of road (each having watched the previous attempt) and each slid off in the exact same place, ending up door-to-door with the previous victim.

    By KipHenrie
    From: centerville, utah
    Jul 22, 2009
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Think you are a 10a climber? Ha, get on this thing. The climbs on this wall are tricky and are hard to onsite. You really have to climb slow and thotful. If you rush it you are done for. Delicate balancy son-of-a-guns I tell ya. Pig Charmer will test your footwork to a tee. These are not upper body climbs.