|Type:||Trad, Sport, Aid, 2 pitches, 200', Grade II|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b A0-1 [details]|
|FA:||James Garrett and Leif Macylwaine|
|Submitted By:||James Garrett on Sep 4, 2006|
|Comments on Piercing The Nipple||Add Comment|
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From: Smog Lake City, Utah
Jan 18, 2007
|Rigging the nipple for a solo-aid was a bit funky. There's not much at the base for a good anchor- ended up having to equalize the first two bolts and occassionally tie off as I went. Strangely fun, like climbing through a museum of gear and bolting creativity. Bigger than it looks from the road- almost ran out of 'biners (I'd say maybe 30+ clips). The fixed line on the backside was in bad shape with one of the piton anchors pulled. Another route on the south face(?)...|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 13, 2007
|A couple of rivet hangers, or wire nuts are useful. 2 or 3 of the bolts were missing hangers.|
By Adam Johnson
From: Park City, UT
Aug 23, 2010
|Super fun until the bolts run out!!! Loose and make sure your your partner is way back (if you got one)! Fist size rocks are bound to fall.Other than in interesting top out its a interesting outing.|
By Tristan Higbee
May 11, 2012
I climbed this today and the last entry in the summit register was Adam's in August 2010. The climb is worth doing if for no other reason than to see all of the crazy "bolts." The route is what you'd get if you crossed sport climbing and the Fisher Towers. Like Arie, I tied off the first couple bolts to use as an anchor for soloing. Huge props to the guy who freed the route. Impressive.
Pitch 1: Has exactly 39 (!) bolts, 2 of which do not have hangers. Follow 34 or so bolts up the vertical to overhanging face, then you've got some, uh, interesting climbing. There are a couple steps you need to climb over that are interspersed with horrible, disintegrating mud that you literally have to kick steps in. Awesome. The 3-bolt anchor is bomber. I replaced some of the webbing.
Pitch 2: This "pitch" is all of 15 feet long. From the ledge, climb past a single bolt up to the boltless summit (well, there are the old quarter-inchers from the other route). Then downclimb back down to the belay and rappel from there.
You can't rappel directly to the right/east with a single 70m rope. I tried. But you can use a single 70 to rappel down the grassy gully thing on the back side of the tower (facing away from the road). You could probably even use a 60 for it. The pull is easy.
The route gets afternoon shade.
There's a sign on the road where you park that labels the tower Monument Rock. Here's a photo of it taken in 1869.