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The Pierced Nipple
5.12c YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks IX- UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British A0-1
Avg: 2.3 from 3
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Routes in Monument Rock
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Bone Collector, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a A2 R |
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Pierced Nipple, The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b A0-1 |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | James Garrett and Leif Macilwaine |
| Page Views: | 3,217 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | James Garrett on Sep 4, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Jim Clarke, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Echo Canyon Seasonal Closure: Jan. 1 - second Saturday in April (and sometimes longer)
Details
The Echo Canyon climbing areas are located within the Henefer-Echo Wildlife Management Area. The Utah Division of Wildlife Resources closes all access to the WMA each year from January 1 to the second Saturday in April (and sometimes longer) to protect wintering wildlife.
Description
This was apparently free climbed by Park City local Kevin Fosberg at 5.12b-c? As I once mentioned elsewhere, this is truly fun weirdness on conglomerate...not of the same rock quality as the Dry Wall. Originally climbed 5.8 and A0, this essentially climbs a bolt ladder up the south face until the angle decreases somewhat and then the first pitch ends at a ledge where a register (sign in and spray away) can also be found. Pitch #2 grovels up to the summit tower where old 1/4" bolts were found....presumably from an ascent up the back side. Drilled on the lead....with a glue gun!
Location
South Face of the Nipple. It was named by 16-year-old partner Leif who is the son of the late great Dave Anderson...I think he was thinking about the piercing thing? Approach is 5 minutes from the car.
Protection
Many carabiners and QDs. Something like 23+ clips. The rappel from the top to the register station and then bomber rappel station to the ground. You will find some very interesting, albeit expensive "bolts" on The Nipple. Everything from original Chouinard ice screws to glue in DMMs. should have been an anchor placement in the choss class that day!
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