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The Pierced Nipple
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Piercing The Nipple T,S 

Piercing The Nipple 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b A0-1

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, Aid, 2 pitches, 200', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b A0-1 [details]
FA: James Garrett and Leif Macylwaine
Season: anytime
Page Views: 1,067
Submitted By: James Garrett on Sep 4, 2006

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The South Side of the Pierced Nipple

Description 

This was apparently free climbed by Park City local Kevin Fosberg at 5.12b-c? As I once mentioned elsewhere, this is truly fun weirdness on conglomerate...not of the same rock quality as the Dry Wall. Originally climbed 5.8 and A0, this essentially climbs a bolt ladder up the south face until the angle decreases somewhat and then the first pitch ends at a ledge where a register (sign in and spray away) can also be found. Pitch #2 grovels up to the summit tower where old 1/4" bolts were found....presumably from an ascent up the back side. Drilled on the lead....with a glue gun!

Location 

South Face of the Nipple. It was named by 16-year-old partner Leif who is the son of the late great Dave Anderson...I think he was thinking about the piercing thing? Approach is 5 minutes from the car.

Protection 

Many carabiners and QDs. Something like 23+ clips. The rappel from the top to the register station and then bomber rappel station to the ground. You will find some very interesting, albeit expensive "bolts" on The Nipple. Everything from original Chouinard ice screws to glue in DMMs. should have been an anchor placement in the choss class that day!


Photos of Piercing The Nipple Slideshow Add Photo
Looking down the steep part.
Looking down the steep part.
Looking up the route from the base. Things start off nicely with an ice screw bolt.
Looking up the route from the base. Things start o...
View from the belay.
View from the belay.

Comments on Piercing The Nipple Add Comment
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By Arie
From: Smog Lake City, Utah
Jan 18, 2007

Rigging the nipple for a solo-aid was a bit funky. There's not much at the base for a good anchor- ended up having to equalize the first two bolts and occassionally tie off as I went. Strangely fun, like climbing through a museum of gear and bolting creativity. Bigger than it looks from the road- almost ran out of 'biners (I'd say maybe 30+ clips). The fixed line on the backside was in bad shape with one of the piton anchors pulled. Another route on the south face(?)...
By RoadTripRyan
From: Salt Lake City, UT
May 13, 2007

A couple of rivet hangers, or wire nuts are useful. 2 or 3 of the bolts were missing hangers.
By Adam Johnson
From: Park City, UT
Aug 23, 2010

Super fun until the bolts run out!!! Loose and make sure your your partner is way back (if you got one)! Fist size rocks are bound to fall.Other than in interesting top out its a interesting outing.
By Tristan Higbee
From: Cambodia
May 11, 2012

I climbed this today and the last entry in the summit register was Adam's in August 2010. The climb is worth doing if for no other reason than to see all of the crazy "bolts." The route is what you'd get if you crossed sport climbing and the Fisher Towers. Like Arie, I tied off the first couple bolts to use as an anchor for soloing. Huge props to the guy who freed the route. Impressive.

Pitch 1: Has exactly 39 (!) bolts, 2 of which do not have hangers. Follow 34 or so bolts up the vertical to overhanging face, then you've got some, uh, interesting climbing. There are a couple steps you need to climb over that are interspersed with horrible, disintegrating mud that you literally have to kick steps in. Awesome. The 3-bolt anchor is bomber. I replaced some of the webbing.

Pitch 2: This "pitch" is all of 15 feet long. From the ledge, climb past a single bolt up to the boltless summit (well, there are the old quarter-inchers from the other route). Then downclimb back down to the belay and rappel from there.

You can't rappel directly to the right/east with a single 70m rope. I tried. But you can use a single 70 to rappel down the grassy gully thing on the back side of the tower (facing away from the road). You could probably even use a 60 for it. The pull is easy.

The route gets afternoon shade.

There's a sign on the road where you park that labels the tower Monument Rock. Here's a photo of it taken in 1869.