Login with Facebook
The Grendel
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Academic Freedom S 
Beowulf S 
Beyond the Pale T 
Daneland S 
Exit Stage Right S 
Leitner Route S 
Monster Mash, The S 
Mother Grendel S 
Pebble In The Sky S 
Pierced Lip Lock S 
Strong Arm Tactics S 

Pierced Lip Lock 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Kirk Miller, Mark Rolofson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,517
Submitted By: Kirk Miller on Jul 19, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Pierced Lip Lock.

State Park; Fee Required. MORE INFO >>>


This route stands out for me as the best at the cliff: fun, sustained climbing, requiring a variety of techniques on great rock in a beautiful setting. Easy climbing leads past the first bolt into a steep dihedral capped by roofs. Tread lightly at the pierced lip, and try not to break it or we'll have to rename the route "Busted Lip".


This is the 5th route from the left, on the right side of the main, West end, wall. This is the last route before you have to scramble up to reach the start of Academic Freedom.


14 bolts to anchors.

Comments on Pierced Lip Lock Add Comment
Show which comments
By Andrew S.
From: Bouldurr
Jul 27, 2011

This thing is cool. Get to the "lip", hope she doesn't kiss you goodnight.
From: Denver Colorad
Oct 12, 2012

Stellar route.
By Austin Durr
May 5, 2014

This route is rewarding, very well-protected, and has a great view from the top. Well worth 3 1/2 stars.
By Top Rope Hero
From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
Aug 3, 2015
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

The top half is a bucket of meh...take a star off for that, but the bottom half offer some of the coolest 11.soft moves on the Front Range. Awesome opossum!
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!