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Piedra River

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36+2 Boulder 
Piedra River - Lower West 
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Sweet Willie Boulder 

Piedra River  


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Elevation: 7,500'
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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: markguycan on Jun 18, 2008
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Andrew near the top of the 5.10 lieback crack.

Description 

This is a great location above the Piedra River. So far, only a handful of routes. This place has tons of potential though (hoping to motivate the locals) 1 nice steep lieback crack (5.10), 2 (5.10-11) face sport climbs, 5.9 corner system, and bolted arete (5.10). Eds. apparently, this description is about the East Side.

Sorry I don't know any names or FAs. Rap in about 100 feet to anchors on the face. The lower face is pretty chossy- ought to be cleaned up and linked with routes above for 140 foot routes.

Be very wary of poison ivy in the summer in the lower Piedra area near the creek.

Getting There 

This is North of Pagosa Springs on CR 631 (Piedra Rd.) about 0.5 miles before the bridge. Hike down the bluff. This place is absolutely gorgeous!

Note 

Eds. this area was moved to Pagosa Springs. Thanks!

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.1 miles from here

62 Total Routes

['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',30],['2 Stars',21],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',2],['5.8',5],['5.9',7],['5.10',11],['5.11',10],['5.12',6],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',2],['V2-3',9],['V4-5',4],['V6-7',2],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Piedra River:
Huggy Bear   V5+ 6C+     Boulder, 10'   Piedra River - Lower West
Thunder Will   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Piedra River - Lower West
Nescafe   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   Piedra River - Lower West
Taster's Choice   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Piedra River - Lower West
Emotionally Involved   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Piedra River - Lower West
Lightning Crashes   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Piedra River - Lower West
Different Strokes   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Piedra River - Lower West
First Wall   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Piedra River - Lower West
F***in' Greenies   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Piedra River - Lower West
Mild Hops   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   Piedra River - Lower West
Hopstacle Course   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   Piedra River - Lower West
Cattle Drive   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Piedra River - Lower West
Van Gogh's   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Piedra River - Lower West
Black Magic Spell   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Piedra River - Lower West
Hollow Excuse   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Piedra River - Lower West
Refuse To Suffer   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Piedra River - Lower West
Smokin' Stems   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   Piedra River - Lower West
Southern Cross   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Piedra River - Lower West
Raising Awareness   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Piedra River - Lower West
Wild Hops   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Piedra River - Lower West
Browse More Classics in Piedra River

Featured Route For Piedra River
A beautiful line.

Skewed Reality 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a  CO : Pagosa Springs : ... : Piedra River - East Side
This is a spectacular, steep climb with awesome exposure. It is not for the faint-hearted; if you are uncomfortable climbing sideways of bolts, this is not the route for you.Casual start to the 1st bolt, then easy climbing through lesser quality rock to the 2nd bolt. Go right, then up into a small chimney. Clip bolt 3 and continue up big ledges. Clip bolt 4, which is on the main rock face. Get a rest here and study the holds for the crux traverse. After the traverse, move upwards...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Piedra River Slideshow Add Photo
S. Price trying to beat the rain to the truck.
S. Price trying to beat the rain to the truck.
The beautifull surroundings of the Piedra River du...
BETA PHOTO: The beautifull surroundings of the Piedra River du...
Fall colors along the Piedra River. Gorgeous. Late...
Fall colors along the Piedra River. Gorgeous. Late...
View from the east rim.  A) Raising Awareness     ...
BETA PHOTO: View from the east rim. A) Raising Awareness ...
Toner Mtn. from the trail on the way out.
Toner Mtn. from the trail on the way out.

Comments on Piedra River Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 7, 2014
By manuel rangel
From: Tempe, Arizona
Jul 16, 2008
If you drive down to the river/bridge, a trail takes you downstream where the upper walls are exposed, the solid portion, and there are a few sport and trad routes on the west side of the canyon.
By Craig Childre
From: Lubbock, Texas
Jun 24, 2010
I think the map designation for the turn is named Dead Man's curve. Awesome fishing too if you're an angler.
By s.price
From: PS,CO
Dec 1, 2010
The bridge is 14 miles from the Piedra Road/County Rd.600-CO Hwy 160 junction.
By s.price
From: PS,CO
Dec 29, 2010
On virtually all routes in the canyon, you will find a long stickclip handy.
By Riley Evans
Aug 24, 2011
Does anyone know where I may find a guidebook to this location?
By issac overright
From: Farmington NM
Mar 27, 2012
Does anyone know if this area will be climb able by next weekend (i.e. free of snow)?
By rockhill
Jul 20, 2013
Looking for partners. I am living in old town Pagosa. Hit me up! Love to climb anything.
By JarrodWatson1
Aug 19, 2013
@Rockhill - Looking for partners? - My wife and I will be in the area from August 23-27. We will be climbing for at least one if not two days do not know which days yet. Send me a message if you will be around or anyone else who wants to climb.
By Chris Cavallaro
Oct 10, 2013
Can any of these routes in any areas around Pagosa Spring be TR'd; read, walk around top and throw rope down. Specifically the moderates.

Any information much appreciated.
By Jesse Morehouse
From: CO
Oct 30, 2013
After climbing here since the early 2000s, I have to say this area has seen some great development in the past few years. Some very quality routes have been put in with great hardware, and the poison ivy is no longer the issue it once was. Pretty much all routes are accessible to both lead and top rope climbers. The handful of developers who have done this deserve props for sure!
By s.price
From: PS,CO
Jun 4, 2014
Every unpainted hanger in the canyon is coming down. Paint 'em or lose 'em, your choice. Contact me if yours end up missing. Show up with some primer and paint, and you can have them back. I'll even watch you paint 'em.
By Jackel
Jun 13, 2014
To S. Price:
I'm all about preservation of our natural surroundings as well as climbing/putting up climbs with ethical consideration every time. Why don't you take the high road here, and if you are going to rap in to remove every unpainted hanger, bring some paint with you and paint them. Contribute something positive, and the climbs remain climbable.
By markguycan
From: flagstaff, AZ
Jun 16, 2014
I agree with Jackel, please be a proactive climber rather than a reactive environmentalist.
By Haj
From: Santa Fe, NM
Jul 15, 2014
Just wondering if the bolts are still in place at this time? I am considering climbing here next weekend. Thanks!
By s.price
From: PS,CO
Jul 16, 2014
They are still up. Not fair of me to take all away for the summer visitors.
This fall they will come down. If those that put them up unpainted in the first place would have been proactive, there would be no reason to be reactive.
By Kevin Frederick
Jul 25, 2014
Nice rock here. Most of the routes are not bolted for leading at your limit, IMHO.
By Kevin Frederick
Jul 25, 2014
S.Price, re: removing hangers.

I would be sad to see you strip hangers not only for my own selfish interests (though I'm only here once a year, in summer, so thank you for not stripping them yet!) but also because such actions just create antagonism and division within the climbing community.

Questions: have there been complaints from land managers, hikers, etc? IMHO I think the chalk is a bigger eyesore. How many hangers are you targeting?

Just an idea: since you obviously feel very strongly about it (strongly enough to spend time and energy stripping hangers), what about establishing a fund to pay for your efforts to camouflage them instead? I would be happy to contribute. Perhaps the Access Fund could help materially or organizationally as well.
By rageynate
From: Tempe, AZ
Jul 27, 2014
I was planning on going there this Tue. and Wed., but the last thing I want to do is get halfway up a climb and find stripped bolts, have you cut them yet? If not, I'll bring some paint and paint any I climb. Any preference on paint color/make?
By s.price
From: PS,CO
Jul 28, 2014
Hangers will be in place until this fall.
Unless you are properly equipped to paint hangers on the wall without making a mess of it, I would prefer you paint none of them. If you must, tan and flat black will be your color choices.

Kevin, yes there have been complaints from land managers and hikers. Every unpainted hanger is targeted. I am not really concerned with causing a rift in our local climbing community. Those that equipped these routes knew what was expected of them and dropped the ball. Still in their court until this fall.
By Kevin Frederick
Aug 6, 2014
Re: S. Price --

Again, curious -- how many unpainted hangers are there? 5? 50? 100?

Anyway, you sound quite determined to strip the hangers, and reading between the lines it sounds like there's already a "rift" in the local climbing community. Too bad. I would have liked to help contribute in a positive manner; since I don't have the time resources to do so I would have been happy to contribute monetarily. It's a shame to see the same old tired battles among climbers, rather than working together so that the effects of a few insensitive sorts are lost among overall positive efforts.

Is it more important to penalize the miscreants, with the greater climbing community as collateral damage, or, as a previous commenter suggested, take the high road, with help from others, and fix the problems? The risk of the former choice is that you end up as destructive as those who put the shiny bolts there in the first place.

This is the whole reason the Access Fund was created. Notice that even in this little forum there's already been another offer of help (thanks, @rageynate)!
By s.price
From: PS,CO
Aug 7, 2014
Actually, Kevin, I have had a change of heart. Let 'em fuck it up if they want.
I will be focusing my energy on a new area instead.