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Piedra River - Lower West

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Beauty 
Black Magic Spell 
Cattle Drive 
Chocolate Corner 
Different Strokes 
Emotionally Involved 
F***in' Greenies 
First Wall 
Full Body Brace 
Golden Seam 
Graffiti Wall 
Hollow Excuse 
Hopstacle Course 
Huggy Bear 
I & Eye 
Jammers Kant 
Lightning Crashes 
Main Traverse 
Main Traverse 2.0 
Mild Hops 
Nick & Todd 
Noodle Wall 
November Reign 
Practice Wall 
Raising Awareness 
Rave Mode 
Refuse To Suffer 
Ruled By Force 
Smokin' Stems 
Solo Slab 
Southern Cross 
Taster's Choice 
Thunder Will 
Unknown 2 
Van Gogh's 
Wild Hops 
Winning Streak 
Unsorted Routes:

Piedra River - Lower West 

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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Jesse Morehouse on Aug 28, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: Left side of photo is the 5.10c and right is the 5...


This is an idyllic, creekside setting with AM sun during the summer. It is a small area with a few trad routes, a number of bolted routes, TRs and boulder problems. Know what poison ivy looks like, and beware during the summer- it's all around the trail.


Please do not belay from the trail. This is a multi-use area and horses are a common sight. Please be respectful of others.

New route development should be avoided close to the trail for this reason. There have also been concerns in the past from rangers regarding routes near the trail, so please do your part to keep the concerns a thing of the past.

Getting There 

From the parking lot across the Piedra River, take the Ice Caves Trail down stream taking a left at the fork. As you drop to the river, you will see the first route on your right. There are routes along the cliff and boulder problems and top ropes down by the river.

45 Total Routes

['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',20],['2 Stars',15],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',1]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Piedra River - Lower West:
Thunder Will   5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Taster's Choice   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Emotionally Involved   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Nescafe   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   
Lightning Crashes   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Different Strokes   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
First Wall   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
F***in' Greenies   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
Hopstacle Course   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   
Mild Hops   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   
Cattle Drive   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Van Gogh's   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Black Magic Spell   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Winning Streak   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   
Hollow Excuse   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Smokin' Stems   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   
Refuse To Suffer   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Raising Awareness   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Southern Cross   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Wild Hops   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Classics in Piedra River - Lower West

Featured Route For Piedra River - Lower West
View walking upstream. The route starts in the overhanging corner/crack to the left of the dashed line then climbs diagonally right up the smooth black face. <br />KILLER!

Black Magic Spell 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c  CO : Pagosa Springs : ... : Piedra River - Lower West
This is a mixed gear route. Begin the climb at "Smokin' Stems." Clip a piton and place gear to protect the steep start, then follow the bolts up and right. It is good climbing on a beautiful, black face....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Comments on Piedra River - Lower West Add Comment
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By Pullhard
Jan 19, 2014

January 19, 2014- fantastic day of climbing! 90% of the routes are climbable. Was warm enough to climb shirtless in the sun. Did not need snowshoes to hike in.

By Jaaron Mankins
From: Bayfield, CO
Sep 9, 2008

Definitely DO NOT belay on the trail!! Horses cruise through here often, and they are not going to stop if you are in the way. Cool spot!!

By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Jun 29, 2011

Thanks for the hard work on the route development! We spent a couple afternoons climbing here and truly enjoyed it. Really fun climbing in a beautiful setting. My favorites were "Wild Hops" and "Smokin' Stems", but I liked pretty much everything I got on.

By Erik Durgin
Jul 4, 2011

Is there more bouldering besides the few problems described here? Anything harder or decent looking projects that would make it worth a drive from Durango??!!

By s.price
From: PS,CO
Jul 21, 2011

Routes are listed from entering the canyon, starting with First Wall. Sorting was done right to left as they are found. Where needed credit is given to those who had the original vision for the route along with first ascentionist.

By kmcgaughey
Sep 4, 2012

Beautiful area!

To clarify some directions, from downtown Pagosa:
- Take US Hwy 160 West
- Turn right on Piedra Road, a.k.a. County Rd. 600. This becomes unpaved after a few miles. (Don't need 4WD.) The name changes to County Road 631.
- Go about 14.5 miles until you cross the Piedra River, and park next to the bridge on the right.
- The trailhead is on the other side of the street.