Piece of Dirt
|1,098 page views|
Piece of Dirt is located on the "Rat Brain" section of Poland Hill, on top and to the right as you approach. It is the first route of any substance to the right of the obvious, right-angling, Kim crack, and is an equal distance to the left of the classic and equally obvious, plumbline offwidth Fantasia. Once you get up to the Rat Brain (done by circling around to the east of Poland Hill and then following your nose up some slabs), the route will be the reasonably clear line of fairly new bolts (in 1999) following the right side of a large, semi-circular flake to a slab above.
Launch yourself into a full-on lieback on the flake, clipping the first three bolts in the process (10-). Make sure you are solid before pulling up rope for the clips - it's easy to blow it and launch yourself from this position. Make the transition from lieback to vertical slab (crux), and then follow the slab past two more bolts to a bolted anchor up and right. Although the rope drag leaves something to be desired, can be TR'd by leaving the last bolt clipped as a directional.
5 QDs plus something for the anchor.
Keen Butterworth enjoying Piece of Dirt.
Keen Butterworth on the upper face climbing sectio...
|Comments on Piece of Dirt
|By Chris Dawson|
From: Denver, CO
Apr 11, 2002
This is a fun pitch. I remember it feeling a little spacey between the bolts after the crux. There are still some slab moves to be had. But, that's what I liked about it.
|By Brian Scoggins|
From: Eugene, OR
Apr 16, 2004
Instead of using the bolted anchors up there for toproping, build an anchor (1-2" seemed to work well) straight up from the last bolt. Much less rope drag in general.
Oct 1, 2005
The layback flake is pretty positive. Don't dawdle at the top of the flake!
|By Dylan Kuhn|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Apr 29, 2007
The second clip is a bit of a puzzle to me. I made a dicey clip from below where I still felt okay about falling on the first bolt. The better, more liebacked, stance next to the bolt I would not want to blow. Love the climb, though.
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 26, 2007
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
If you think this feels run out or 11ish, go and lead Fall Wall and Gunga Din. After those this route feels like a pretty laid back 5.10+. 5.9ish laybacking at the bottom, 1 move 5.10+ crux, finish on 5.9+ and easier slab.
I really enjoyed this route.
|By Tom Rangitsch|
From: Lander, WY
Aug 23, 2011
This route was originally done placing gear blindly behind the layback flake. Tim added the bottom few bolts after someone broke their ankles falling and zippering their gear.