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Pie Plate 

5.11a

   
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Type: TR
Consensus: 5.11a/b [details]
FA: ?
Submitted By: Steve Sangdahl on Mar 23, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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JJ, Pieplate

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Description 

i rmember the pie plate like holds on this one.this always felt stout. anybody know if it s been led? i imagine it has or soloed


Protection 

t.r. or ???



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By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 28, 2006

This is a great route with flowing moves the entire way. .11a/b if you start by jumping up to the obvious jug at the beginning. .12a/b if you actually use the crimps and boulder out the beginning. Classic crimping. Not sure if it has been lead either, but I would like to.

By Trad Nanny
Jun 1, 2009
rating: 5.11a X

Led it today after flailing on the opening moves for a few goes.
A few ball-nutz and some brassies with screamers worked nicely but he opening moves were totally unprotected. The main flake after the crimpy opening moves is VERY hollow and visibly moved when I stuck a piece behind it. Would never hold a fall.
I started just to the left "Bucket Brigade" crimped up and through a left traverse to a flat jug, then back up right to the hollow flake and mostly straight up on good crimps. 5.11a R/X
Some of this could have been "No Fruit Please" as described in Sven's guidebook. I couldn't figure the distinction between those routes. On the version I did you only trend slightly left for a few moves, any further left and you would be on "Vivisection".

By richard bechler
Jun 3, 2009

This was free soloed by Rob Drysdale in the 90's

By Trad Nanny
Jun 3, 2009
rating: 5.11a X

Awesome, probably the only option is solo if you don't own the Ball-Nutz. Richard, do you know the difference between this and "No Fruit Please"?

By Tony Brengosz
Mar 17, 2012
rating: 5.11b

I would also like to know what the difference between this and No Fruit Please is. I couldn't for the life of me figure a way to climb straight up from the start.