By JJ Schlick Administrator From: Flagstaff, AZ Sep 28, 2006
This is a great route with flowing moves the entire way. .11a/b if you start by jumping up to the obvious jug at the beginning. .12a/b if you actually use the crimps and boulder out the beginning. Classic crimping. Not sure if it has been lead either, but I would like to.
By Tradoholic Jun 1, 2009 rating: 5.11a6c22VII+22E3 5c X
Led it today after flailing on the opening moves for a few goes. A few ball-nutz and some brassies with screamers worked nicely but he opening moves were totally unprotected. The main flake after the crimpy opening moves is VERY hollow and visibly moved when I stuck a piece behind it. Would never hold a fall. I started just to the left "Bucket Brigade" crimped up and through a left traverse to a flat jug, then back up right to the hollow flake and mostly straight up on good crimps. 5.11a R/X Some of this could have been "No Fruit Please" as described in Sven's guidebook. I couldn't figure the distinction between those routes. On the version I did you only trend slightly left for a few moves, any further left and you would be on "Vivisection".