Pie in the Sky  5.12

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 90 feet Consensus:  5.12 [details] FA:  D. Mabe, June 2012 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Darren Mabe on Jun 17, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Darren on FA of Pie in the Sky, June 2012
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Description 

Pie in the Sky climbs the short headwall above Westbound Willy, left of Mulligan Stew. The recommended route is to climb as one long pitch linking with the first half of Never Ending Night Train.

Start as for Tin Roof Sunday and NENT, being mindful of drag. It helps to skip the first bolt of Sweet Back, and use slings on everything. Once at the small belay alcove stem wide to start Pie in the Sky. Traverse the S-curved crack over space past 4 bolts to anchors at the top of the wall.

Another option if you dare, is to catch Westbound Willy to the belay ledge, then be rewarded with a "Pie in the Sky" as a short second pitch.

Protection 

Bring gear for the first half of NENT, a handful of slings, and 4 quickdraws for the headwall.

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Pie in the Sky. Photo: Chris Novellino