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Routes in 7. Sunny Picnics
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Access Integrale T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b |
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Access Scramble T 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Awning Yawn TR V1+ 5 |
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Manticore Dihedral T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Mushroom V-easy 3 |
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Mystical Mushroom Tour T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Picnics Arete TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Picnics Dihedral T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rodeo Clown TR V2 5+ |
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Sunny Shortcut V-easy 3 |
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Tour des Picnics T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 45 ft (14 m) |
| FA: | Ken + Sharon Roberts 2015 |
| Page Views: | 749 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | kenr on Nov 8, 2015 |
| Admins: | Morgan Patterson, SMarsh |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: As of November 2021, there are new parking arrangements. Please follow this guidance.
Details
The current parking area is now limited parking, subject to the following guidelines:
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
No parking weekdays before 4pm. (Use Saltbox Parking Area at these times).
Do not block pump station access gates at any time.
Be careful not to hit or disturb manholes or other infrastructure.
The Saltbox Parking Area is a new resource, available on weekdays and weekends. Don't bushwhack or create new trails from this area.
Torne Brook Road and the trailhead remain a no-parking area. This is to ensure access for emergency personnel.
Inconsiderate or illegal parking here could lead to permanent closure.
Description
Thoughtful stemming/bridging moves in the open book / dihedral.
Too bad it's not longer (though several other routes can be Top-Roped from same or nearby top anchor).
Up to the top of the dihedral. Step right, then up crack.
Variation: Pull the roof just right of the crack (5.9)
Finish just below left side of large ledge at base of Enclosure sector -- (as of 2015) possible belay anchor at some small tree stumps.
Could then continue up a route of the Enclosure area. If on Top-Rope, Sigrun's Choice is an obvious choice, but on Lead it's not very protectable. Instead could traverse Left to the upper Tower Wall and finish up the Manticore Upper Arete or farther left to the Manticore Face route.
Or instead of climbing higher, could descend the Tour des Picnics route.
. . (From a trad anchor constructed above this route near top of cliff (near the top of Sigrun's Choice or Manticore Face route), could also Top-Rope routes such as Picnics Arete, Sigrun's Choice , Manticore Dihedral, Manticore Face , the Rossinator, or Red Knob Madara variation).
warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
Too bad it's not longer (though several other routes can be Top-Roped from same or nearby top anchor).
Up to the top of the dihedral. Step right, then up crack.
Variation: Pull the roof just right of the crack (5.9)
Finish just below left side of large ledge at base of Enclosure sector -- (as of 2015) possible belay anchor at some small tree stumps.
Could then continue up a route of the Enclosure area. If on Top-Rope, Sigrun's Choice is an obvious choice, but on Lead it's not very protectable. Instead could traverse Left to the upper Tower Wall and finish up the Manticore Upper Arete or farther left to the Manticore Face route.
Or instead of climbing higher, could descend the Tour des Picnics route.
. . (From a trad anchor constructed above this route near top of cliff (near the top of Sigrun's Choice or Manticore Face route), could also Top-Rope routes such as Picnics Arete, Sigrun's Choice , Manticore Dihedral, Manticore Face , the Rossinator, or Red Knob Madara variation).
warning: The rock on and around this route has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
. . . (Lots of vegetation on this rock as of 2015. Be prepared when climbing to navigate around protruding trees and branches, and dealing with holds slippery with grass, lichen, moss, dirt).
Location
NorthWest inside corner of Sunny Picnics area, at the junction of the East-facing left wall and the South-facing main wall.
--> See on Routes Photo
--> See on Routes Photo
Protection
Leading: standard Trad rack with emphasis on mid-size cams and stoppers. I did not find any use for cams larger than a #2 Camalot, nor for any small stoppers.
Top-Roping: Could construct trad anchor for top-roping near the right (east) end of the the top of the Tower Wall (like neat the top of the Manticore Upper Arete route).
Top-Roping: Could construct trad anchor for top-roping near the right (east) end of the the top of the Tower Wall (like neat the top of the Manticore Upper Arete route).
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