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Cassina Baggia
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dr grüne Nils S 
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Piccadilly di Bedretto 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 10 pitches, 1250', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
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Page Views: 556
Submitted By: Colin Winter on Nov 5, 2008

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In the steep upper headwall of Piccadilly

Description 

A popular, high-quality route of moderate difficulty. As with neighboring routes, the climb offers pleasant climbing up a large, moderate slab, followed by a superb, steeper headwall.

The only 6a bit on the route is a very thin slab section in the 5th pitch, which can be aided. There are numerous pitches of 5c/5c+, particularly in the headwall.


Location 

The route is on the right side of the wall, and begins from a band above the first slabby part of the lower wall. A trail leads up and around to the right of the first slab, providing access to the band. Scramble left on the band to its end. Picadilly, dr grüen Nils and Herbstwind all begin from this point (there is often a cairn here, but no marking on the rock, and no bolts/pins until somewhat higher up). Picadilly scrambles up and then left on a ramp underneath a steep, black-colored section of rock. Herbstwind ascends the steeper, black-colored face. Dr grüen Nils bypasses that same face via a ramp to its right.

Descent is by abseil back down the wall.


Protection 

The route is bolted, very well through the more difficult sections, somewhat more spaced on the easier terrain.



Photos of Piccadilly di Bedretto Slideshow Add Photo
Ossian B on one of the early pitches in the lower, slabby part of the route.
Ossian B on one of the early pitches in the lower,...
In the upper headwall of Piccadilly
In the upper headwall of Piccadilly
The first pitch of Picadilly
The first pitch of Picadilly
Upper headwall, Piccadilly
Upper headwall, Piccadilly
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