Piccadilly di Bedretto
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In the steep upper headwall of Piccadilly
A popular, high-quality route of moderate difficulty. As with neighboring routes, the climb offers pleasant climbing up a large, moderate slab, followed by a superb, steeper headwall.
The only 6a bit on the route is a very thin slab section in the 5th pitch, which can be aided. There are numerous pitches of 5c/5c+, particularly in the headwall.
The route is on the right side of the wall, and begins from a band above the first slabby part of the lower wall. A trail leads up and around to the right of the first slab, providing access to the band. Scramble left on the band to its end. Picadilly, dr grüen Nils and Herbstwind all begin from this point (there is often a cairn here, but no marking on the rock, and no bolts/pins until somewhat higher up). Picadilly scrambles up and then left on a ramp underneath a steep, black-colored section of rock. Herbstwind ascends the steeper, black-colored face. Dr grüen Nils bypasses that same face via a ramp to its right.
Descent is by abseil back down the wall.
The route is bolted, very well through the more difficult sections, somewhat more spaced on the easier terrain.
Ossian B on one of the early pitches in the lower,...
In the upper headwall of Piccadilly
The first pitch of Picadilly
Upper headwall, Piccadilly