While Pically Circus may not the best route around over all, it does contain one of the best roof cracks on Lumpy!
Easily seen from the Black Canyon Trail or the summit of the Pear is a nice looking crack breaking the lower left slab leading to the headwall of The Citadel. Climb this eventually making a traverse left to the wide dihedral. Head up the not-so beautiful crack and go left to a nice belay ledge below the roof with the hand crack running through it. Jam and undercling the sharp, evil underside of the roof(#4 Camalot) and crank the clean, body length hand crack through the center of the roof. So good! Belay above the roof and then head up and left to the top.
Average Lumpy rack up to a #4 Camalot.
|Comments on Picadilly Circus
From: Pinewood Springs
Jun 26, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
P1. ~100m of easy slab climbing, at the top of the slab traverse left about 3m below wall until you reach the right-facing corner and crack above.
P2. 7m up the crack 5.7/8, then step left to another crack w/ 5.9 move above. Follow crack to left under slab, then up 6 or 7m and traverse back right to alcove belay. 60m.
P3. 5.10 climbing begins once you're under the roof and traversing left to the notch and cracks in roof. Good pro but can be difficult to place. A green Camalot at end of traverse. Once you get gear in crack you can take a break, climbing above is good clean finger crack. 50m.
Camalots: double (yellow, red, green); 14 shoulder length QDs; many finger size cams. Watch for gear cluster F at lip of roof.
At the top of P3, since I almost pulled this death rock onto myself, we decided to launch it and save someone's life.