Pi Way or the Highway  V3-4

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Type:  Boulder, 15 feet Consensus:  V3-4 [details] FA:  Phaydara Vongsavanthong Submitted By:  Jacob Gerber on Oct 24, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Jacob Gerber reaching for the bomber crimp

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Description 

A really fun 15 foot tall near vert slab (like as close to vert as you can get). About 25 yards North of the house boulder with a slightly angled landing, you can't miss it. More technical than powerful so it is hard to rate, but the crimps are pretty small. Start in the middle of the wall pretty much right under the overhanging tree. Find a small two finger crimp/pocket and start with right hand in or around there, and left hand on a crimp about a foot or so to the left. Stand up. Get foot/feet higher and reach for sharp crimps up and to the right. Reposition feet, stand up and reach for a good crimp up and to the right, or a crimpy v thingamabob just to the left of that (be careful because that v thing wants to be broken). Reposition feet and go for the top. Be careful because some of the top out holds are thin and might break easily. This problem is great because from the start, you slowly work your way right and towards the jugs on the arete, but you don't end up using them until the top out when they make for good feet. Also, there could be a good line that starts on the left side of the slab.

Location 

About 25 yards North of the House Boulder. It has a sloped landing and there is a cool thin sculpture like thing that has been eroded out of the wall on the arete to the right. .

Protection 

Pads and a spotter.