|(3) Red Wall
Wow! This is a true trad tick. Physical Graffiti starts with fun, but tricky face climbing which then leads to the cool overhang near the top with a zig-zag crack splitting the middle. A difficult exit over the roof holds many sequences; find yours.
Red Wall, left side
Trad, with some bolts on Habitual Ritual
|Comments on Physical Graffiti
May 13, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
The approach as described above is to follow the bolts on P1 of hit the highway, and then follow "tricky" face climbing up & left to the ledge below the roof crack - use this direct approach to climb the roof crack in a single pitch from the ground.
The original climb actually has a separate first pitch: start by scrambling up the left side of the cliff, as if accessing the ledge to top-rope anastasia/classic crack - but instead of heading right to the ledge, start climbing straight up a corner & ledge system until you reach a single bolt under an overhang - then hand traverse right ~15 feet to reach the anchor & ledge below the roof crack. Belay up your 2nd from here before attacking the roof. This first pitch is ~5.7-5.8.
From: Bloomington, IN
Sep 15, 2013
What a cool route! Burly overhanging jams in one of the coolest positions on the wall. Pulling the lip was the highlight of my day. A little short but very sweet. Started the pitch at the ledge above classic rack and such and used the direct start as described. Very enjoyable and highly recommended.