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 ADVANCED
(3) Red Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Anastasia TR 
Arcturus TR 
Classic Crack T 
Critical Mass S 
Hard Body S 
Hit the Highway T,S 
Kashmir S 
Let's Just Call It Kashmir Direct? S 
Mr. Bentley TR 
No Friction T 
On the Loose TR 
Physical Graffiti T 
Pinhead S 
Red Eye S 
Sheer Energy T,S 
Sheer Stress T 
Shoot From the Hip T,S 
Thai Stick S 

Physical Graffiti 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Bob McGown
Page Views: 1,313
Submitted By: peachy spohn on Aug 14, 2007

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Physical Graffiti

Description 

Wow! This is a true trad tick. Physical Graffiti starts with fun, but tricky face climbing which then leads to the cool overhang near the top with a zig-zag crack splitting the middle. A difficult exit over the roof holds many sequences; find yours.

Location 

Red Wall, left side

Protection 

Trad, with some bolts on Habitual Ritual


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Physical Graffiti
Physical Graffiti

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By hemp22
May 13, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

The approach as described above is to follow the bolts on P1 of hit the highway, and then follow "tricky" face climbing up & left to the ledge below the roof crack - use this direct approach to climb the roof crack in a single pitch from the ground.
The original climb actually has a separate first pitch: start by scrambling up the left side of the cliff, as if accessing the ledge to top-rope anastasia/classic crack - but instead of heading right to the ledge, start climbing straight up a corner & ledge system until you reach a single bolt under an overhang - then hand traverse right ~15 feet to reach the anchor & ledge below the roof crack. Belay up your 2nd from here before attacking the roof. This first pitch is ~5.7-5.8.
By nickehman
From: Bloomington, IN
Sep 15, 2013

What a cool route! Burly overhanging jams in one of the coolest positions on the wall. Pulling the lip was the highlight of my day. A little short but very sweet. Started the pitch at the ledge above classic rack and such and used the direct start as described. Very enjoyable and highly recommended.
By another Chad
Jun 4, 2014
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Crack boulder problem.

Chad