|2,509 page views|
|Type: ||Sport, 2 pitches, 100 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.11a [details]|
|FA: ||Pitch 1: (TR) Bob Gaines, Erik Murdoch, 12/04 Complete Route: Bob Gaines, Russell Romero, 1/05|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||Bob Gaines on Jan 1, 2005|
The first pitch.
Best done in 2 short pitches, although you can lead it in one if you really watch out for rope drag. The first pitch hand traverses up and right across a dike past 4 bolts to a 2 bolt alcove belay. Pitch 2 traverses left, then up steeper face climbing to the top.(6 bolts and 2 fixed pins) Bolted belay/rap anchor. Rap 80 feet.
10 bolts and 2 fixed pins
BETA PHOTO: Anasazi Wall, Joshua Tree NP
Lincoln at the end of the 1st pitch
|Comments on Physical Graffiti
Apr 24, 2005
What a great climb. I would push it to 11A if you link the two pitches. It was very cool, just try to back clean the first bolt, and use runners.
Apr 25, 2005
The dike for pitch one is wonderful feature, complete with mica flakes and embedded quartz. You are never sure what shape the holds are going to be on it. The traverse and groove on P2 are harder than they look from the ground, while the roof is easier than it looks. I'd go 4 of 5 *'s for this one, Bob's eye for quality didn't fail him on this one.
Done in 1 pitch gives a crux for all types of climbers, the dike traverse on P1 will frustrate those you have difficulty with delicate footwork and intricate handholds. P2 is powerful and will sap the strength of those unused to steep pulling. As KC mentions backclean the first bolt and use shoulder length runners for the single pitch push.
May 2, 2005
A very fun route. We did it in one pitch, which is recommended. 10d/11a as such. 4 of 5 stars. If you want to treat it as a sport route and lower off (or to TR others), take a 10 foot extendo or a few extra runners to lengthen the anchor so rope runs free.
Leader should take about 6-8 shoulder length runners to use instead of draws. (P1) Use runners on all 4 bolts. (P2) Don't clip the belay anchors. After clipping 2nd bolt (with a runner), back clean 1st bolt on 2nd pitch. After clipping bolt above roof (again with a runner), back clean the one below the roof. Runner on two fixed pins (or long draws). Rope drag will be no problem.
|By tony grice|
Nov 13, 2006
DO it! you'll love it. Delicate first pitch, juggy overhanging second.
|By Will S|
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 11, 2008
End up on this about once per season. It's really a great route, hasn't gained the attention of the masses yet, and bakes in the sun. The dike holds can be harder to use than you expect, especially for their size. The smearing at the end of P1 seems to be cleaning up nicely.
|By Andy Laakmann|
From: Bend, OR
Nov 25, 2008
Absolutely steller! Destined to become a well travelled classic once this gets published in a book. I did it in two pitches, but now that I know the route I might try one pitch the next time. Felt 10d to me this way, and even in one pitch you can get a sit-down rest at the anchor....
The route is safely bolted, for both leader and follower (despite the traversing nature)
The dike traverse felt about 10b/c. Really fun climbing! Second "pitch" felt around 10d, with the crux right in the middle of the headwall. The upper roof had big jugs, but it takes a little energy to find the path of least resistance. After clipping the last bolt and pulling the roof, two closely spaced pins lead left to the anchor.
Note of caution: my second pumped out and fell off the last roof. She swung left under the pin and it was extremely difficult for her to get back to the easiest part of the roof. Not much one can do to alleviate this, but just something to know....
Sun all afternoon, and I suspect sheltered from the wind as well.
Follow the directions on the Anasazi Wall page and it'll lead you right to this climb. You'll pass the popular Funny Bone/Norweigen Wood routes on the N. Face of Snickers, and just keep walking up the valley and it ends at this wall and route.
Nov 20, 2009
Kick ass route with a nice location
From: Oakland CA
Nov 5, 2011
Stellar route. 1 pitch is the way to go, clipping the first 6 with long slings. I also unclipped the first bolt on the second half of the route, rope ran fine.
|By susan peplow|
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 6, 2011
TR session (thank god!) this baby has 'em all. Technical crux, and burl crux. It's up to you to see where they are. Recommended to push it in one pitch with long draws as Randy suggested. Easy feed for leader and still safe for the follower.
This is an instant classic!
|By Brian Treanor|
Dec 11, 2011
I'm late to the party as I just got on this in December 2011 (after Bob pointed me in toward the route). Brilliant climb.
|By Richard Shore|
Apr 16, 2012
I'll go against the grain here and suggest doing it two pitches. You don't have to deal with extending slings/backcleaning, and you get to enjoy the cool cave belay station and swap leads with your partner if you so desire.
Pulled a baseball-sized chunk off the dike hand-traverse on P1 yesterday, near the 4th bolt. Also busted some small pieces off the foot-traverse dike at the finish of P2. Still cleaning up a bit, but truly a fantastic climb. Looks much easier from the ground! P2 was burl.