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Phx and Tuscon in December
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By cja
Nov 2, 2012
Hi all,

I'm going to be in Phoenix and Tuscon for a few days in early december and want to get a friend of mine on his first lead sport route. Praying Monk seems like a good place to start, though I'm a bit unclear how the set up is here. Sounds like we will get to practice sport climbing on the head wall...is a 60m rope long enough for this(for the <5.7 routes)? More importantly, can we rappel down the head wall with a 60m rope? And the monk itself, sounds like you can lead the climb and top belay your 2nd person to the top. Now getting down- it says its a 100ft mostly free rappel, again it's unclear if a 60m rope is gonna cut it.

I feel ok getting to the top of these, just dont want to get caught with not enough rope to get down...

Otherwise, any other good recommendations for December sport climbing in the 5.5-5.7 range in either Phoenix or Tuscon areas?

Thanks

FLAG
By manuel rangel
From Tempe, Arizona
Nov 2, 2012
The Monk is not a sport climb. It is an old face climb protected by fairly widely spaced bolts. You can call it a sport climb but it is not for the inexperienced leader IMHO. The rock at Camelback is ok on most routes but should still be climbed like a scared cat, that's my technique.

Plus, the bees are still active and may be found on the Hart route and near the George route where they killed a man last week.

A 60m rope should suffice to get down the routes on Headwall and Monk.

FLAG
By norwegianwanderer
Nov 2, 2012
Photo.
As was said a 60m rope is fine. The headwall has mostly, if not all, short routes. There is a rappell gulley/designated area that a 50m rope is more that enough. I've climbed there a few times (I live in PA but my family lives at the base of camelback) and found the conglom solid enough but its no granite.

Judging off of your information the headwall will be good enough for sure. Some fun bouldering as well. Enjoy!

FLAG
By Nicholas Oxentenko
Nov 2, 2012
twister roof, Flagstaff, AZ
I'd reccomend going to REI in the Phoenix Valley and buying a Marty Guide for the "Pond/Road Area" at Queen Creek near Superior, AZ. It's an hour east of phx valley and the rock is great plus lots of bolts!! A 60 m rope and dozen draws will suffice there too

FLAG


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