|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches, 360'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]|
|Submitted By:||Hans on May 29, 2012|
|Comments on Photophobia||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
Jul 20, 2012
|Awesome route. Stays shaded all day long, great for an afternoon outing or second route at the squaw. Do it as 3 long pitches--60 meter route gets you down no problem. Props to Robin and his crew for finding this hidden gem!|
By Andy Laakmann
From: Bend, OR
Aug 7, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Great route. Definitely not as classic a Rock On or Great Game, but a worthy route nonetheless and guaranteed to be popular.
P1 - 35m. A long, engaging pitch. The final 40' 10b corner is money. Steep, pumpy goodness.
P2 - 15m. Personally, I wouldn't link into the next one - and we didn't. Fun 5.8 climbing gains the next ledge with a bolted belay. If you do continue on and link into P3, be wary of extra hope stretch and hitting the ledges in the crux corner(s).
P3 - 20m. Technically the crux pitch, but the cruxes are short so in some ways I think P1 is the true crux. Work up the stemming above the belay (I found a micronut to be useful) and pull in below the first steep corner. 10b jamming gains the next ledge. And then repeat, only harder, to the belay. I thought the moves were 10c, but the big rest ledges take the edge off. Be careful if you fall though, as the ledges are definitely in play
P4 - 30m. Fun 10a/b corner with the crux at the top.
P5 - 20m. Worth doing once, but I won't be back. #0.5 camalot and 3 bolts to the belay.
We rapped with a single 70m and was fine. The rap down to the bottom of P4 (as described above) would be very close with a 60m, and you have to swing into the belay... so if you do rap with a 60m tie knots. We were able to comfortably skip the next anchor and rap down below the 5.8 pitch with a 70m. Not sure if a 60m would make that. It was then a full 35m to the ground, but with a 60m you could scramble down the dirty gully.
Double rack from small TCUs to #3 camalot and the usual supply of nuts. We may have only placed one #3, but I can't remember.
By Jessica T
From: seattle, wa
Jul 22, 2013
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
|Recommend keep 5.8 separate from the 10d as the guidebook suggests unless you're a confident 10d leader. P1 and p4 are the money pitches. P2 is fun. P3 has short burley cruxes. Last bolted pitch is fun (p5). This is an awesome steep route. Reminds me of index.|
Sep 26, 2013
|Linking the first two pitches is pretty reasonable. P2 is short and easy. I only used one #3 on P2 and that was reasonably safe. We got a little confused after P2. Don't go to the ledge on the left at the top of the pitch. Clip a bolt (not the staple) and climb up to a ledge that's slightly higher.|
By Sherri Lewis
From: Sequim, WA
Aug 4, 2015
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Maybe my expectations were too high -- the bar for a 4-star route in Squamish is pretty high -- but I didn't love very much about this route.
Some sections felt contrived (such as the start with the bolt in a strange place and a deckfall potential), and it wasn't the nicest granite in town except for the last pitch which was short and sweet.
The mismatched hardware was also a detraction. Some stations had one bolt and one glue-in staple instead of a standard two-bolt anchor.
We followed Andy Laakmann's description and were glad to have not linked the 5.8 pitch to the crux pitch.
On P3(per Andy's route description), a #3 cam protects midway through the crux section above the last ledge so don't use it sooner if you brought one. I thought this section felt hard for the grade but maybe my heart wasn't in it because of the ledge looming below.