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The crux corner of the first pitch of Photophobia,...
On the left side of Slhanay (the new politically correct name for the Squaw), Photophobia was put up in 2011 and is a great addition to a crag already full of good moderates.
P1: 35m, 5.10b. Follow a thin crack up and left before face moves lead to a small ledge and a bolt. Traverse right towards a left facing corner crack. Face moves gain the corner, which is followed to its end (crux) at a two bolt belay on a ledge right of the corner. A great pitch, rope drag can be an issue.
P2: 30m, 5.10c. At the right side of a ledge chimney moves (5.8) gain a hand crack that leads to a good ledge (optional belay here). Continue up, laybacking and stemming past two left facing corners (cruxes) to a two bolt belay on a ledge right of the final corner. The final corner is really good. If only it were longer.
P3: 30m, 5.10a. Step left back into the corner and follow it to its end. Another great pitch.
Either rappel from here, or ....
P4: 20m, 5.10b. Face climb up past 3 bolts to a belay on a ledge. Mostly easy with a short crux.
Note that pitches three and four can be easily combined.
Descend via rappel. A 60m rope will do, although a 70m is better.
Take the regular Slhanay trail from the Mamquam FSR. Just before you reach the wall where Birds of Prey, Great Game, etc. are located, a trail leads left. Follow this for a few minutes, reaching another wall with several routes. Photophobia is the leftmost climb.
A standard Squamish rack to 3" is sufficient. Bring lots of long slings as rope drag can be an issue on pitches one and two. All belays are fixed with bolted rappel anchors. The final pitch is sufficiently protected with bolts.
Jul 20, 2012
Awesome route. Stays shaded all day long, great for an afternoon outing or second route at the squaw. Do it as 3 long pitches--60 meter route gets you down no problem. Props to Robin and his crew for finding this hidden gem!
|By Andy Laakmann|
From: Bend, OR
Aug 7, 2012
Great route. Definitely not as classic a Rock On or Great Game, but a worthy route nonetheless and guaranteed to be popular.
P1 - 35m. A long, engaging pitch. The final 40' 10b corner is money. Steep, pumpy goodness.
P2 - 15m. Personally, I wouldn't link into the next one - and we didn't. Fun 5.8 climbing gains the next ledge with a bolted belay. If you do continue on and link into P3, be wary of extra hope stretch and hitting the ledges in the crux corner(s).
P3 - 20m. Technically the crux pitch, but the cruxes are short so in some ways I think P1 is the true crux. Work up the stemming above the belay (I found a micronut to be useful) and pull in below the first steep corner. 10b jamming gains the next ledge. And then repeat, only harder, to the belay. I thought the moves were 10c, but the big rest ledges take the edge off. Be careful if you fall though, as the ledges are definitely in play
P4 - 30m. Fun 10a/b corner with the crux at the top.
P5 - 20m. Worth doing once, but I won't be back. #0.5 camalot and 3 bolts to the belay.
We rapped with a single 70m and was fine. The rap down to the bottom of P4 (as described above) would be very close with a 60m, and you have to swing into the belay... so if you do rap with a 60m tie knots. We were able to comfortably skip the next anchor and rap down below the 5.8 pitch with a 70m. Not sure if a 60m would make that. It was then a full 35m to the ground, but with a 60m you could scramble down the dirty gully.
Double rack from small TCUs to #3 camalot and the usual supply of nuts. We may have only placed one #3, but I can't remember.