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Philippines late Nov/Early Dec
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By Michael G
Aug 2, 2014
Hey Guys, a friend and I will be heading to the area during that time. Does anyone have any beta beyond this website:

climbphilippines.com/

Thanks,
Michael

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By Cathy
Aug 2, 2014
Me
Hi Michael,

My friend Ele and I went to the Philippines in Feb 2006 and met up with a group of locals who took us to climb in Cantabaco. It was hot (~90*) and humid (~95%) when we were there -- bring good chalk! Everyone was super friendly and we had a blast. We were psyched to watch our new friend Miel put up the FA of a 13a, which they named La Filthy Gringas in our honor :-)

Just google that route name and you'll get other pages of info. Maybe also post on the FB page of SCAPI to see if anyone local is available and interested in showing you around.

Also, I've found that when I climb in countries where gear is expensive/scarce, it goes a long way to bring some stuff to leave behind with locals as a thanks or even buy a rope on sale, use it while there, and then give it away in appreciation for being shown around. I've seen a lot of manky ropes in use around the world, and unfortunately people still climb on them because it's all they have.

Cathy

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By John Byrnes
Administrator
From Fort Collins, CO
Aug 4, 2014
Beware of corroded bolts.

mountainproject.com/v/bolts-fo...

Just like Cuba, Filipino climbers are quite poor and have to rely on equipment brought from abroad from visiting climbers. Of course, most visiting climbers bring stainless steel bolts. Sigh.

Discoloration of any stainless bolt/hanger is a bad sign. Obvious rust/corrosion is a clear and present threat to your life.

Stainless steel bolts have broken due to SCC in Thailand in 9 months. A year in Hawaii. 18 months in Cayman. I expect nothing different in the Philippines since all the factors are present: temperature, rainfall, vegetation, limestone/basalt/sandstone.

It's unlikely, but you may find some titanium glue-in bolts. Properly placed, these are bomber.

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By Cathy
Aug 4, 2014
Me
John makes an excellent point...and after reading that thread I have to admit that there definitely is elevated risk to climb in these areas. You could be the unlucky one.

If you still plan to climb while there, my advice is to only get on routes that are well within your ability, be comfortable down climbing, and bring some bail biners. Don't risk a lead fall on a questionable bolt.

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By John Byrnes
Administrator
From Fort Collins, CO
Aug 6, 2014
Cathy wrote:
John makes an excellent point...and after reading that thread I have to admit that there definitely is elevated risk to climb in these areas. You could be the unlucky one. If you still plan to climb while there, my advice is to only get on routes that are well within your ability, be comfortable down climbing, and bring some bail biners. Don't risk a lead fall on a questionable bolt.


Unfortunately, it's not just lead falls that are dangerous. Most broken bolt stories I've heard involve having the climber "take", or having one of the anchor bolts come spinning down the rope while lowering or rappelling.

Personally, I had a bolt break while being lowered. It was under a small roof, and had an outward pull on it of only 10-15 lbs.

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