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French's Dome
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Philanthropy 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Phillip Hranicka
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 283
Submitted By: phillip on Sep 12, 2012
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Description 

Philanthropy is a "choose your own adventure route" starting from either Pump O Rama or The Darkside before climbing through 4 new bolts on fun, overhanging, juggy terrain.

Starting from Darkside adds a few fierce, sidepull moves after the crux before the headwall. This certainly is more difficult than the original Darkside, but it might not warrant a bump in grade.

Starting from Pump O Rama, Philanthropy avoids the P.O.R. crux by veering right after the 4th bolt. Clip the first new bolt out right and follow jugs up the steep bulge. Despite huge holds the rest of the way up, the climbing is quite pumpy. This variation makes for a nice 5.11+ addition to the crag. It might be a touch more difficult than Crankenstein. See what you think!

The route is (surprisingly) as clean and solid as anything at French's. However, keep in mind that the route is new and the rock may crumble a bit in spots.

My fellow, beloved humans- have at it!


Location 

The steep prow between Pump O Rama and The Darkside (AKA The Siege).


Protection 

4 bolts plus anchor with fixed biners.

If starting from The Darkside, clip the first two bolts, fire the crux, then reach up and left to clip the first bolt of Philanthropy. BE CAREFUL with this clip! Blowing it could mean hitting the wooden tier down and right. It is possible to clip a long sling out right (Darkside 3rd bolt) before committing to Philanthropy.

If starting from Pump O Rama, clip the first three bolts before finding a stance out right to clip the first bolt on Philanthropy.

Any potential rope drag issues can be mitigated by clipping long slings to either the last bolt on P.O.R./ Darkside or the first bolt on Philanthropy.



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