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 ADVANCED
Third Flatiron
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
1911 Gully T 
Blazing Biners T,S 
College Drop Out aka East Face North Side T 
Direct West Face a/k/a Western Skyline T 
Doctor Merkwurdigliebe T 
Dog's Head Cutoff T 
East Face (Standard) T 
East Face Left T 
Extra Point T 
Falcon's Fracture T 
Friday's Folly T 
Friday's Folly Direct T,TR 
Funny Games T,TR 
Greenman's Crack T,TR 
Holier than Thou S 
Inner Sanctum T 
Northwest Passage T 
Pentaprance T 
Ph.D. Roof T 
Right Of Spring T 
Saturday's Folly T 
Sayonara T,S 
Shoyu State S 
South Chimney T 
Southwest Chimney T 
Super Woo T 
Thin Crack T 
Third Kingdom/Papillion T 
Third World Zone T 
Unknown (formerly entered as Problem Child) T,TR 
Waiting For Columbus T,S 
West Door T 
West Face [3rd Flatrion] T 
Winky Woo T 
Wrongs of Fall T 
Unsorted Routes:

Ph.D. Roof 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 650'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: R. & J. Rossiter, 1990
Page Views: 1,069
Submitted By: Tony B on Sep 14, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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BETA PHOTO
  • Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    From the East Bench of the Third Flatiron, from where the Standard Route starts, go up and right on the ground to a diminuitive slab, below the main face. There are other ways to break down the pitches, but this is what we did:

    P1. Climb 65m up this slab as for the first pitch of College Dropout, but continue past the belay (5.6) to the base of a hefty crack and flake system. This is done on a 70m rope or with a small bit of simulclimbing. If you don't like that, break this into two pitches by belaying at one of the small trees along the way.

    P2. Climb up and left into this bulging crack system, protecting on hand-sized cams. As the crack goes, it gets a little tighter then disappears as you try to gain the slab. Stem and cling up it. A good gear placement is available above, and there are good jams and jugs. This is a footwork oriented crux (5.10a). Pull onto the slab above and run for the summit (5.3). You should belay as far up as you can reach and still have a good belay... well past the "notch" in the side where the Northwest Passage joins the slab.... YMMV.

    P3. Head for the top again. If you ran your 70m rope to the end on the last pitch, you'll probably reach it now, maybe with a few moves of simul-climbing. (5.3) Otherwise, belay and lead another pitch.

    The original grade of this route was 5.10d, I believe. The most recent Rositer guidebook grades this at 5.10c. If this is a 5.10c, it may be on of the easiest 5.10c's I have ever done. Relative to the Northwest Passage (5.10a), it is FAR easier.... Anyway, my partner and I debated if this was a 5.10- or a 5.9+. I have listed this as a 5.10a as a compromise in his favor, as the book lists it as harder.

    Disclaimer: It WILL be harder than 5.9+ for short people who can't reach the jugs on the slab above the bulge, but a good handjam is there that should keep it no harder than 5.10b.


    Protection 

    This is a bit runout on the slab parts, just like any other Flatiron. The crux crack/flake pitch protects quite well with a few cams from 0.75" - 3". You can get a 2-2.5" piece at your feet and hang on to get another 0.75-1.0" or 2" piece over your head for the crux, but that might be pumpy for some people.



    Photos of Ph.D. Roof Slideshow Add Photo
    Our route was along the red dotted line. The white dashed line, I think, is College Drop Out. The part where the route meets College Drop Out was the most difficult part for me. Someone with really long reach could climb it with easy, but if you have a short reach like I do, then it will be a real workout as there are no good hand/foot holds.
    BETA PHOTO: Our route was along the red dotted line. The white...
    Comments on Ph.D. Roof Add Comment
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    By Kris Holub
    From: Boulder, Colorado
    Aug 31, 2013
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    Feels really soft for 10a, especially since it's more or a less a single move. The crux protects very well with a 0.75, and a locker hand jam just over the roof saves the day once the feet disappear. We approached this in a single, rope-stretching 60m pitch by climbing the right-facing dihedral/ramp to a semi-hanging belay right below the crack. This pitch would have been great, but excessive lichen kinda ruins it.