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The Dilithium Crystal
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Trouble with Tribbles aka Impulse Power 

Phasers on Stun 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Scott Ayers, Marty Lewis
Page Views: 1,377
Submitted By: Tom Helvie on Jan 11, 2007
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Phasers on Stun

Description 

Straight up the center of the Dilithium Crystal between Mind Meld and Lt Uhura, lies this beautiful, technical face. The business comes early with several thin, bouldery moves leading to balancey moves leftward to gain the flake. Good rests lead up to a strange bulge and a pumpy finish. Sustained and excellent. Lower end .12c compared to many other Gorge routes of the grade. Can be combined with the finishes of Romulan Roof or Klingon for a greater pump.


Protection 

11 bolts to mussy hooks



Photos of Phasers on Stun Slideshow Add Photo
Long reach at the end of the crux
Long reach at the end of the crux
Comments on Phasers on Stun Add Comment
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By 426
Mar 26, 2007

Glad to see this uprated (iirc). Was a very stout b...

By Vic Lawson
From: Bishop, CA
Dec 8, 2007

I deffinately think this is a solid .12c The moves are very hard, the lower three cruxes are back-to-back, the rooflet at midheight is reachy & awkward...and the finish is pumpy. That said this was my first .12c...but numorous .12b's felt much easier...even Excelsior @ .12d felt esier (on toprope) than Phasers.

Sorry to split hairs, but I thought it was a doosey!

By Tim Steele
From: Bishop, CA.
Dec 10, 2007

Phasers is actually one of the easier .12c's down there. Go try Steel Monkey, Skin Tight, or Smoothie for a reality check. The crux of Crybaby is harder as well. Phasers is one of the most traveled .12cs in the gorge.

As for the comparison to Excelsior, have you done it? That rig is considered by most peeps to be .13a and it is seldom done. Phasers has a distinct crimp crux down low, but then mellows out. Excelsior is about 12a to a V5/V6 boulder problem, followed by techy 5.11+ to the top. Most peeps get shut down by the crux.

By Vic Lawson
From: Bishop, CA
Apr 25, 2008

Hey Tim...

I could see Excelsior feeling .13a if you are short. I was on it a few weeks back (when the temps were much better!) and led it twice, both times falling after clipping the crux bolt...for me, matching on that crimp, clipping, then matching again all before that BIG move up and left is pretty hard...but I feel certain I could do it, IF I skipped that energy wasting clip. Haven't been back since though...

Steel Monkey I've been on twice on TR, falling twice first go, and falling only once (foot slip!) on my second go weeks later. I am actually going down tomarrow to try for the redpoint, so we'll see...

The reason I say that Phasers feels solid is that it took four seperate days of work to get it clean. Even though I haven't redpointed Excelsior or Steel Monkey yet, I feel as though I will get them the next time I get on them, which will add up to less tries than Phasers.

But, as we both know, over the years the grades of many Gorge climbs fluctuate and change (it seems) on a whim, so who knows? They all feel about the same grade to me, but phasers (personally!) seems like more of a challenge...I am stronger at techy stuff though. I am always SO pumped at the top of Phasers that I really struggle to clip the chains!

Let's go climbing sometime!

By JamesLucas
Jan 20, 2012

I thought this route was the hardest on the Dilithium Crystal. The technical boulder problem down low feels sandbagged. The rest of the route isn't so bad. I exited the Romulan Roof, and gave my 8a.ego a little upgrade.

By Drew Peterson
Mar 22, 2014
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b

Low end 12c is a misnomer in my opinion. It felt on par with 12c's at Smith, therefore I'm pretty confident it is in the 12+ category somewhere. Additionally, it is 13- when it's basking in the sun...